UK and Europe · Public discussion

Re: Changing forks on a MTB

Started by Taka · · Last activity · 3 posts · 383 views

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
UK and Europe
Published
31 July 2005
Last activity
1 August 2005
Original author
Taka
Posts
3
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
383
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–3 of 3
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. Chris Eilbeck said:

    I've never done this before but I'm guessing it's a pretty
    straightforward job. I'd rather do it myself than get my LBS to do it
    if I can. Are there any gotchas I should be aware of? The forks seem
    to have recently developed about 1/2" of unsprung travel when I lift
    the front of the bike off the ground so I'm going to replace them with
    some rigids.

    FWIW I've got a 1994 Saracen Sahara MTB (front suss only) with road
    tyres which I use for commuting, general pootling around and the odd
    20-30 mile jaunt, mainly on roads but the occasional towpath.

    Yes, I know I could use this as an excuse to buy a new bike 😉

    Chris

    I've done it...once!
    I performed this task on an alloy steering tube so if your new tube is
    carbon fibre my advice may be wrong!

    You won't always need to cut the tube but if you do:
    1) Cut new fork steerer using a hacksaw. Use an old (or unused)
    headset spacer and tape it to steering tube so you keep a straight
    cut.
    2) Smooth cut tube using dremel or sandpaper.
    2a) Use mask + goggles when you do all of this.

    3) Either push the starfangled nut out of the old tube and reuse it OR
    get a new one. When you take it out, push it down the tube, not UP
    like I tried on my first attempt :-(
    4) I think there might be some sort of a "starfangled nut pusher tool"
    out there but failing this, use the end of a long wrench or something
    long and thin enough to tap the nut down the new tube. Do this
    carefully so that it goes down straight.
    Don't push it down so far that the bolt can't reach it!
    5) Reuse (or get new) crown race and gently tap this down to the base
    of the new steerer tube.
    6) Check headset bearings in case they need replacement.
    7) Grease any parts that need to be greased, race bearings, etc.
    8) Make sure the tube length is such that the top of the tube is about
    3mm below the top of the stem (or same distance below the top of the
    top spacer).
    9) Screw in top cap so the bar is aligned with the wheels and the unit
    is tight.
    10) Tighten the stem screws.
    11) Done!

    Which forks are you going to put on?

    Taka

  2. in message <[email hidden]>, Taka <Taka> (''😉

    Quoted message said:

    8) Make sure the tube length is such that the top of the tube is about
    3mm below the top of the stem (or same distance below the top of the
    top spacer).

    Do this /before/ you cut.

    Quoted message said:

    1) Cut new fork steerer using a hacksaw. Use an old (or unused)
    headset spacer and tape it to steering tube so you keep a straight
    cut.
    2) Smooth cut tube using dremel or sandpaper.
    2a) Use mask + goggles when you do all of this.

    Angle grinder does all this in one go and is quicker.

    Quoted message said:

    4) I think there might be some sort of a "starfangled nut pusher tool"

    A highly technical tool known in the trade as a 'broom handle'.

    Quoted message said:

    5) Reuse (or get new) crown race and gently tap this down to the base
    of the new steerer tube.

    That's the bit that genuinely does require a specialist tool which your
    LBS will have. Get them to do this bit. It will take under five minutes
    and your crown race will not get damaged.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    ;; single speed mountain bikes: for people who cycle on flat mountains.

  3. "Simon Brooke" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    in message <[email hidden]>, Taka <Taka> (''😉

    Quoted message said:

    5) Reuse (or get new) crown race and gently tap this down to the base
    of the new steerer tube.

    That's the bit that genuinely does require a specialist tool which your
    LBS will have. Get them to do this bit. It will take under five minutes
    and your crown race will not get damaged.

    If the headset is knackered and needs replacing some sets use a split lower
    crown race that is easy to fit & remove. My FSA has this feature but may be
    prohibitively expensive however it would be worth finding out if any
    cheaper types have it. It would only be applicable to sealed bearing types I
    imagine.
    --
    Pete
    http:[email hidden]/P

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 1 guest ·0 bots ·1 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.