Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Re: Brooks seat rail diameter changed in 70's ?

Started by Arthur Harris · · Last activity · 3 posts · 485 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
26 May 2005
Last activity
27 May 2005
Original author
Arthur Harris
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  1. Bob said:

    I plan to pull another '73 Brooks saddle off another bike that also
    has and SR Laprade and do some swapping but before I spend a lot of
    time on that, is this a known issue ?

    All my saddles were sliding backwards in my SR Laprade post. I finally got a
    different seat post.

    Art Harris

  2. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Arthur Harris said:
    Bob said:

    I plan to pull another '73 Brooks saddle off another bike that also
    has and SR Laprade and do some swapping but before I spend a lot of
    time on that, is this a known issue ?

    All my saddles were sliding backwards in my SR Laprade post. I finally got a
    different seat post.

    That SR Laprade saddle post! What is their story? I have one and a
    Brooks Proffessional saddle ( about 15 years old and the plating
    on the saddle rails is like new). The saddle kept slipping back.
    The saddle rails are large enough, or the saddle post clamps small
    enough to engage each other, but it seems that the saddle rails
    are so hard and slick that the friction design fails. I asked a
    mechanic at the lbs and he put a wrench on the hold down bolt,
    then tightened it very hard. Result was that the saddle continued
    to slip back, _and_ the threads in the alloy of the SR Laprade
    saddle post clamp were warped. By warped I mean that even when the
    saddle post assembly was not tightened down, the bolt did not turn
    freely in the alloy threads. Blegh!

    I took the two elements of the saddle post clamp, layed them out
    with their clamping surfaces up, mixed up some JB Weld, and made
    four pads of JB Weld on each of the two elements of the saddle
    post clamp. After 24 hours to cure I installed the saddle with
    the modified clamps, took a ride, and the saddle remained in
    place; no slipping. Another testimonial to JB Weld; it truly is
    better than baling wire. All hail JB Weld!

    Now for the warped threads. Took the saddle post bolt to the
    hardware store, bought a nut that fits it, bought the same kind of
    bolt that is one nut longer than the original, drilled out the
    threads in the alloy clamp piece, glued the nut to the clamp
    piece, and reassembled the saddle post with the new bolt. The
    bolt spins like a top in the steel threads of the bolt, I can
    tighten the bolt as hard as I please without worrying that the
    threads in the aluminum alloy will strip, and the saddle stays
    where I put it. (When gluing the nut to the clamp element take
    care that glue does not flow into the threads.)

    For the new bicycle I got a Brooks saddle and the Salsa saddle
    post. Love that Salsa! The indepent micro-adjustable saddle tilt
    is a treat. The saddle does not slip in the clamp.

    A question. How hard can I tighten bolts in my aluminum allow
    stem? I do not tighten nearly as hard as I would like, and worry
    that I will strip the;, then have to replace the stem, or find a
    clever way to fix it. I do not trust threads in aluminum alloy,
    even though my automobile mechanic says that he does and I could.

    --
    Michael Press

  3. Michael Press wrote:

    [Laprade tale o' woe snipped]

    Curious. I've had one for more than 20 years, with an assortment of Brooks
    saddles fitted thereto, and nary a promble.

    --
    Dave Larrington - <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/>
    While you were out at the Rollright Stones, I came and set fire to your
    Shed.

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