UK and Europe · Public discussion

re ahead headset bearings

Started by geepeetee · · Last activity · 4 posts · 316 views

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UK and Europe
Published
17 September 2006
Last activity
18 September 2006
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geepeetee
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  1. Hi

    I have an image of the assembled headset if anyone wants it emailing.

    I have had the top apart but I was short of hands to remove the forks. The
    top has a 'stepped' bush with a cut in it to allow the diameter to reduce
    slightly when the centre allen screw is tightened. This bush fits into the
    slightly conical head tube and nips against the fork tube.

    Hope this makes sense

    gary

    --
    Visit my websites at
    www.justjents.co.uk
    www.recumbent.50megs.com

  2. "geepeetee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi

    I have an image of the assembled headset if anyone wants it emailing.

    I have had the top apart but I was short of hands to remove the forks.
    The top has a 'stepped' bush with a cut in it to allow the diameter to
    reduce slightly when the centre allen screw is tightened. This bush fits
    into the slightly conical head tube and nips against the fork tube.

    Hope this makes sense

    I think one of our tandems has a headset like this. The 'slightly conical
    head tube' is just another bit before the bearing.

    I'll email you if you want - does your reply-to work?

    cheers,
    clive

  3. geepeetee said:

    Hi

    I have an image of the assembled headset if anyone wants it emailing.

    Please email it to me at p at biggs dot tc

    Quoted message said:

    I have had the top apart but I was short of hands to remove the
    forks.

    The job is done two-handed by laying the bike on its side*. But all this is
    unnecessary if the headset just needs adjusting to get ride of play and is
    still quite new (or was serviced not too long ago)....

    Undo the rear stem bolts on the side, tighten the top bolt a little, tighten
    stem bolts, test for play, repeat as necessary. See Park Tools's site for
    full details.

    * tip (for caliper type brake): remove brake and let it dangle - easier than
    redoing the cable.

    Quoted message said:

    The top has a 'stepped' bush with a cut in it to allow the
    diameter to reduce slightly when the centre allen screw is tightened.
    This bush fits into the slightly conical head tube and nips against
    the fork tube.
    Hope this makes sense

    'Fraid not. Do you mean something like this:

    http://www.woodmancomponents.com/catalog/categorie.php?cat=pre&lang=en&art=pre5 ?

    That's for pulling the stem down, which in turn loads the headset. It's not
    actually part of the headset.

    ~PB

  4. "geepeetee" <[email hidden]> a écrit:

    Quoted message said:

    I have had the top apart but I was short of hands to remove the forks.
    The top has a 'stepped' bush with a cut in it to allow the diameter to
    reduce slightly when the centre allen screw is tightened. This bush
    fits into the slightly conical head tube and nips against the fork tube.

    That compression ring removes play between the steerer tube of the fork and
    the bearing cartridge of the headset. If you lay the bike on its side and
    tap the top of the steerer tube with a rubber mallet (or a hammer cushioned
    with a bock of softwood) the fork should come out, and you'll have access to
    the lower parts of the headset.

    I'm not sure what VP mean by 'semi cartridge' in this case: it may be that
    they use conventional balls assembled into sealed clips, or conventional
    balls at one end and a cartridge bearing at the other. In any case, proceed
    with care and you can't do much harm.

    James Thomson

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