When do you know its time to adjust the position of the rear ub/wheel to take up some slack in the chain?
I seem to have a little play forward/backward in the cranks which is annoying at low speed...
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When do you know its time to adjust the position of the rear ub/wheel to take up some slack in the chain?
I seem to have a little play forward/backward in the cranks which is annoying at low speed...
"flyingdutch" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
When do you know its time to adjust the position of the rear ub/wheel to
take up some slack in the chain?I seem to have a little play forward/backward in the cranks which is
annoying at low speed...--
flyingdutch
Dutchy,
I usually check the tension on the chain when I do my pre ride checks (ie
tire pressure/condition and brake pads). So in my case it never really gets
to the point where I experience any excessive slop in my driveline.
I check the chain tension by rotaing the crank until the chain is at it's
tightest and then adjust the tension at this point until it is tight (but
not so tight as to cause the chain to bind) I then check the tension of the
chain is adequate for the remainder of the one complete crank revolution.
If at this point you discover that you still have too much slack in the
chain it could be due to the chainring not being correctly positioned on the
crank spider. You may need to slacken off the chainring bolts and work on
getting the chainring back into a position on the spider that gives a more
even chain tension. Sheldon Brown covers the Technique in the Chain Tension
paragraph on this webpage http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html
(its almost at the bottom of the page)
Geoff
"flyingdutch" <[email hidden]
Quoted message said:When do you know its time to adjust the position of the rear ub/wheel to
take up some slack in the chain?I seem to have a little play forward/backward in the cranks which is
annoying at low speed...
How slack does it look? You shouldn't be able to
derail it manually. I don't really know 'how' I do
mine. It's just a case of pull wheel back most of
the way but not too tight. I think there is a rule of
thumb about 10mm vertical chain movement but
you would do better to look it up..
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension
hippy
Geoff said:"flyingdutch" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
When do you know its time to adjust the position of the rear ub/wheel to
take up some slack in the chain?I seem to have a little play forward/backward in the cranks which is
annoying at low speed...--
flyingdutchDutchy,
I usually check the tension on the chain when I do my pre ride checks (ie
tire pressure/condition and brake pads). So in my case it never really gets
to the point where I experience any excessive slop in my driveline.I check the chain tension by rotaing the crank until the chain is at it's
tightest and then adjust the tension at this point until it is tight (but
not so tight as to cause the chain to bind) I then check the tension of the
chain is adequate for the remainder of the one complete crank revolution.
If at this point you discover that you still have too much slack in the
chain it could be due to the chainring not being correctly positioned on the
crank spider. You may need to slacken off the chainring bolts and work on
getting the chainring back into a position on the spider that gives a more
even chain tension. Sheldon Brown covers the Technique in the Chain Tension
paragraph on this webpage http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html
(its almost at the bottom of the page)Geoff
er....
all i could decipher was...
"Yes, Dutchy. why dont we stop in at your place on BR16 and do it on the spot" 😄
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