Bike Cafe · Public discussion

preventing bike theft (locks)

Started by jawnn · · Last activity · 5 posts · 2,882 views

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Bike Cafe
Published
8 March 2004
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12 March 2004
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jawnn
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  1. If you have ever tried locking your bicycle to a bike rack (that already has several bikes in it) with a U bar lock, you may have tried asking the store manager to put another rack in a safe location, unfortunately they just don’t understand and don’t care that locking it in a place with low foot traffic is like asking some one to ‘please cut my lock, no one is paying attention’…(even in the middle of the day)

    While it is true that most locks are cut at night (is it?) And most theft is of unlocked bikes, in full day light by some ass hole leaving his pickup truck running at the side of the road while he throws your bike in the back and is gone in seconds. With battery powered tools or a small cutting torch any thing can be cut. That’s why I lock my bicycle as close to the door as possible with two heavy duty locks and chain, heavy enough that it will take more than a hammer to get threw them. Noise will make most people pay attention and that’s not what the thief wants. (not that the jerk won't just claim that it's his bike)

    A cable of any sort will cut with bolt cutters hidden under a jacket. And cheap chains and locks are worse than nothing. You need to think about how easy it is to open a lock with a crow bar also. Then some say that they will freeze and crack your lock, so use a Brass shielded lock? Well I think the Brinks hardened steel shielded lock may be one of the best. And the Kryptonite N.Y. noose chain, harder than bolt cutters is the way to go, if you have a motorbike. (The 'New York noose chain' is too heavy for a bicycle). The N.Y. U bar shackle is the best. (Both cheaper than a new bike). Actually the 'Steel-o-flex' may be the best for the weight, But I haven’t tried cutting or freezing any of these.

    E-Mail from:

    Deirdre Weinberg Department of Parking and Traffic Bicycle Program www.bicycle.sfgov.org

    Any lock can be picked, cut with a welding rig, or made brittle enough to shatter with a sledgehammer with liquid nitrogen. However, with a good quality lock, all are impractical in daylight away from a street or parking lot open to traffic. I've heard of only a single instance of a Kryptonite Evolution lock being welded apart or picked, but it can be done.

    My most excellent commuter bike was stolen from my front porch in San Francisco.

    I was on my way out to work, remembered something in the house, and left my unlocked bicycle on the porch just a few minutes. When I got back I could see it in a pickup truck driving away. I called the cops and they wouldn’t even try to catch them. -Carrie

  2. bikes get stolen in my area from secluded bike racks in garages (even when they are right next to the guard station), and in broad daylight across the street from the frosted glass windows of golds gym health club in full view of all the office windows across the street. what are people gonna do when they see that happening? i've confronted an obvious thief before, and he just said the bike was his. i went across the street to the gym for help and they just shrugged--what can they do if the guy claims the bike is his and he lost his keys? that dude was just twisting the u-lock by picking up the bike and turning it back and forth because it was locked by its top tube. sheesh.

    u-locks should always go through at least one wheel, with the flat side in the wheel and not against the hard frame or the hard bike rack. if you have a large u-lock and quick-release wheels, take one wheel off and lock it with the other wheel with the frame. this takes up as much room as possible so a thief can't squeeze a car jack in there and break the lock. i doubt there's a u-lock out there that can withstand the force of a car jack, which is a very common item in a parking garage, especially if you can break into a car--which is astonishingly easy to to. i can't imagine that it makes much noise, and a thief seen from a distance crouching near a bike might just look like he's fumbling for his keys or just trying to unlock the lock on his own bike.

    i should probably add that you should lock your wheels together anyhow if you have quick-release, but ah well, hate to be a hypocrite and suggest something that i don't do myself (*shrug*-- you have to use your own judgement in any case).

    the best thing is to diversify because a thief in general has one primary way of breaking the lock, and can't carry more than that one thing. a good heavy chain (with big links) AND a u-lock, with all the space in the u-lock taken up if possible with parts of your bike. sometimes all it takes is to make your bike less easy to steal than the rest.

    drives me absolutely bonkers to see how many bikes get locked up by just the top tube...

    i have rarely had problems with 7-eleven or grocery stores letting me take my road bike inside with me, so that's what i do when i'm in a jam. whole foods market is great about this (although if everyone did it, it may be a problem). but otherwise, i shop and run errands on my mtn bike which seems to be theft immune (but then, it is a 30 lb bike).

    i also have an county sticker on my bike that has a prominent image of a police badge. don't know if that helps deter theft....

    but the best deterrent is to just use an ugly bike (or uglify it--wrap some hidous looking tape on the frame, use crappy looking tires and plain looking wheels). otherwise, just don't let it out of your sight.

  3. Yes the suggestions are excellent and I'll use them.

    ButI think the kry point is to be careful of the location you lock the bike and the time you leave bike. Altho cycling in London for 30 years with a bike as my sole mode of transport (except for public transport) I've never had a bike stolen. I always look around before I leave my bike for suspicious people, in many cases try to have a view of it, hide the bike in an obscure place where possible etc. I almost always have used simple steel combination locks.

  4. Most u-locks are [censored] becuase there are only 2 master keys and about 10? standard round keys to open them. I went to a sporting goods store once were all the kryptonite locks had been opened and all the keys taken-- to be used to steal bikes. And a car jack, steel bar or pickax will bust these really easy.

    Try Campell's security chain-- it comes pre cut in 2 and 3 ft sections. Nothing short of a heavy torch can cut this stuff. It's not cheap however-- over 10 bucks a foot and it's hard to find. It's sold mostly to the US military. Get a good padlock-- with a hardened shielded shank and deadbolt action. This again isn't cheap-- 30 bucks easy. This kind of stuff is harder to find since 9/11, but it's really worth it. A good chain and lock to be used for the rest of your life on a lot more stuff than your bike.

    The bad news is that your bike now weighs 5-6 pounds more 🙁

    Most of all, ride a cheap bike. Any bike under $600 just isn't the target for theft as a $1000+ bike is. Campy parts signal rip-off, as do racing wheels, light weight saddles, ect.. A team issue race bike is never really safe... even in your house or office. Too many [censored] will pay $500-$1000 bucks for a *hot* bike.

  5. OK I need an expinsive recumbent bike.....Are there any GPS traking devices for bikes yet?

    I think the next step is a mad dog with a machine gun.

    Have you seen where to get that kind of chian on the internet?

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