Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Polishing brake levers

Started by Brian Plaugher · · Last activity · 4 posts · 783 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
30 May 2004
Last activity
1 June 2004
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Brian Plaugher
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  1. A Muzi opined, in re scratched brake levers: The aluminum
    ones are also simple to remove, file, wetsand and polish on
    a cotton wheel. You could barely tell they were on the
    ground after.

    --
    More details, please: what kind of file? What grit
    sandpaper? Plain cotton wheel, or polish involved?
    Expectantly, Brian Plaugher

  2. Quoted message said:

    A Muzi opined, in re scratched brake levers: The aluminum
    ones are also simple to remove, file, wetsand and polish
    on a cotton wheel. You could barely tell they were on the
    ground after.

    Brian Plaugher wrote:

    Brian Plaugher asked for more info but his post was
    configured so as to not appear in the "reply" form. ??

    File out any deep scratches, wetsand with 400 paper then use
    a buffing compound on a cotton wheel. Change direction
    frequently when polishing and wear eye protection.

    Buffing compound is sold at hardware stores and comes in
    sticks about the consistency of a crayon in cardboard tubes.
    Press the stuff firmly against a spinning cotton wheel to
    impregnate the buffing paste into the cotton.
    --
    Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
    April, 1971

  3. Brian, You could start at perhaps a slightly coarser grade
    than 400 grit, depending on how bad the damage was on the
    lever. The Aluminum Parts such as these levers are a bit on
    the soft side, so they shouldn't take too much sanding with
    coarse grit to get out the damage.

    Then go finer, and finer in grit, being careful not to
    remove too much stock, as you might wind up with a pair of
    toothpicks. Sand Paper grades I would try would be 320-400-600-800-
    1000, and even on to perhaps 2000, or 0000 Steel Wool. If
    Parts have Knurling, or stamped emblems, try to stay away
    from these with any paper, until perhaps you get to the
    steel wool, or metal polish

    By perhaps using a metal polish from a tube after (Flitz, or
    200MPH Polish, or something similar), you may be able to
    forego the use of a Cottom Buffing Wheel. Trick is to take
    your time, and it's best to start out as fine as you can go
    with the paper to see if the damage can be removed without
    removing too much stock. With a little time, certain parts
    can be polished to a chrome like luster if you so desire
    without the use of a Buffing Wheel.

    Plating shops will use Professional buffing wheels, and
    various, and different types of buffing abrasives dependent
    upon the metal. in the interest of time, and results. (They
    can't take all day to buff/polish one part)

    Try to find a mom+pop Hardware store where you can buy just
    a couple of sheets of each grit paper, this way, your not
    spending tons of money on entire packs of paper to
    accomplish your tasks.

    Always having a tube/bottle of all metal polish on hand is a
    good thing to have, as you may find other uses for this on a
    bike, or around the house. Hope this helps, Somehow I
    couldn't follow up on your post, so I had to start another?
    Weird. Mark

    [email hidden] (Brian Plaugher) wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    A Muzi opined, in re scratched brake levers: The aluminum
    ones are also simple to remove, file, wetsand and polish
    on a cotton wheel. You could barely tell they were on the
    ground after.

  4. A Muzi said:

    Brian Plaugher asked for more info but his post was
    configured so as to not appear in the "reply" form. ??

    It's because his post was below two dashes (and a space?);
    "-- " is the standard signature divider and your newsreader
    is smart enough to avoid including the signature of the post
    you are responding to.

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