Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Polishing brake levers

Started by Brian Plaugher · · Last activity · 4 posts · 569 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
30 May 2004
Last activity
31 May 2004
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Brian Plaugher
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  1. A Muzi opined, in re scratched brake levers:
    The aluminum ones are also simple to remove, file, wetsand
    and polish on a cotton wheel. You could barely tell they
    were on the ground after.

    --
    More details, please: what kind of file? What grit sandpaper? Plain
    cotton wheel, or polish involved?
    Expectantly,
    Brian Plaugher

  2. Quoted message said:

    A Muzi opined, in re scratched brake levers:
    The aluminum ones are also simple to remove, file, wetsand
    and polish on a cotton wheel. You could barely tell they
    were on the ground after.

    Brian Plaugher wrote:

    Brian Plaugher asked for more info but his post was
    configured so as to not appear in the "reply" form. ??

    File out any deep scratches, wetsand with 400 paper then use
    a buffing compound on a cotton wheel. Change direction
    frequently when polishing and wear eye protection.

    Buffing compound is sold at hardware stores and comes in
    sticks about the consistency of a crayon in cardboard tubes.
    Press the stuff firmly against a spinning cotton wheel to
    impregnate the buffing paste into the cotton.
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  3. Brian, You could start at perhaps a slightly coarser grade than 400
    grit, depending on how bad the damage was on the lever. The Aluminum
    Parts such as these levers are a bit on the soft side, so they
    shouldn't take too much sanding with coarse grit to get out the
    damage.

    Then go finer, and finer in grit, being careful not to remove too much
    stock, as you might wind up with a pair of toothpicks. Sand Paper
    grades I would try would be 320-400-600-800-1000, and even on to
    perhaps 2000, or 0000 Steel Wool. If Parts have Knurling, or stamped
    emblems, try to stay away from these with any paper, until perhaps you
    get to the steel wool, or metal polish

    By perhaps using a metal polish from a tube after (Flitz, or 200MPH
    Polish, or something similar), you may be able to forego the use of a
    Cottom Buffing Wheel. Trick is to take your time, and it's best to
    start out as fine as you can go with the paper to see if the damage
    can be removed without removing too much stock. With a little time,
    certain parts can be polished to a chrome like luster if you so desire
    without the use of a Buffing Wheel.

    Plating shops will use Professional buffing wheels, and various, and
    different types of buffing abrasives dependent upon the metal. in the
    interest of time, and results. (They can't take all day to buff/polish
    one part)

    Try to find a mom+pop Hardware store where you can buy just a couple
    of sheets of each grit paper, this way, your not spending tons of
    money on entire packs of paper to accomplish your tasks.

    Always having a tube/bottle of all metal polish on hand is a good
    thing to have, as you may find other uses for this on a bike, or
    around the house.
    Hope this helps, Somehow I couldn't follow up on your post, so I had
    to start another? Weird. Mark

    [email hidden] (Brian Plaugher) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    A Muzi opined, in re scratched brake levers:
    The aluminum ones are also simple to remove, file, wetsand
    and polish on a cotton wheel. You could barely tell they
    were on the ground after.

  4. A Muzi said:

    Brian Plaugher asked for more info but his post was
    configured so as to not appear in the "reply" form. ??

    It's because his post was below two dashes (and a space?);
    "-- " is the standard signature divider and your newsreader
    is smart enough to avoid including the signature of the
    post you are responding to.

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