Pinarello sizing que

teamgomez said:

For the life of me I can't get my head around pinarello sizing. I'm 6' w/ a 32.5" inseam and ride 58's (specialized sworks....mondonico....wilier) and the Pin sizing points to a 54??? Any other 58 'other than Pinarello' Pinarello riders out there? What size did it equate to in Italian? Thx!

How are you determining which size you need? Ideally you would use frame reach and stack as shown here (note that also shown are handlebar stack and handlebar reach, but those can be adjusted by choosing different stem lengths and a different number of spacers beneath the stem): [IMG ALT=""]http://www.cyclingforums.com/content/type/61/id/276719/width/500/height/1000[/IMG] The stack and reach numbers provide a reliable, apples to apples comparison between frames you have and frame at which you are looking. Many manufacturers are now including those numbers in their geometry charts, including Pinarello. If the manufacturers of your bikes don't have those numbers, you can pretty easily measure them. Here are three articles by Leonard Zinn re: reach and stack, and setting up bikes identically: http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/01/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-with-lennard-zinn-lz-suggest-some-new-years-resolutions-for-the-bike-industry_154565 http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/05/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-more-on-stack-and-reach_217176 http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/05/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-setting-your-bikes-up-identically_216035 Frankly, I don't pay any attention to a given manufacturers stated size of a bike. Before stack and reach, I relied on top tube length, head tube length, and seat tube angle to determine fit. Seat tube angle is important as a bike with a steeper seat tube than another bike, both having the same top tube length, will have greater reach than the bike with the more slack seat tube angle. Some people will argue that you can fit a few different sized frames to an individual just by adjusting stem length, stem angle, number of spacers, saddle set back, and of course saddle height. This true as far as that goes, but it doesn't really cost you anything to get the best fit possible. Moreover, varying stem length can alter a bike's performance, particularly on descents.

I find it helpful when comparing sizes across manufactures to use effective top tube length aka horizontal top tube length (an aspect of reach), and head tube length (an aspect of stack) as one guage.

Alienator mentioned reach, stack, and seat angle. You would want to make sure all considerations have been made.

Great stuff- thanks for the time. While I have bikes that fit, I've never been professionaly fitted and have always used the plumb-bob off the knee/handlebars obscure the axle line of reasoning (and a bit of LeMond's french formula .8something x inseam for saddle height). Reach/stack make much more sense with all the funky top tube angles; will dive into the number on my steeds and see how they fare. Happy Holidays, fellas.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by teamgomez [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

and have always used the plumb-bob off the knee/handlebars obscure the axle line of reasoning (and a bit of LeMond's french formula .8something x inseam for saddle height).

That model works as a decent baseline for a surprising number of folks of relatively average proportion and not at either extreme on the height scale, on a traditional geometry bike (i.e with angles in the 72-74 degree range). It worked well for me and still does.

Because something is labeled as a "professional fitting" does not mean it will put you in your perfect position. Ever get a bad haircut from a "professional" haircutter?

Btw, if you go the fitter route, regardless of the applied methodology the most important quality imo is that your feedback is taken into consideration.