Peak100 on a singlespeed. Advice needed.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by daisymoobeer [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

I live in the Chiltern Hills and regularly ride 50-milers there on my 42T x 20T (yes, I changed the rear sprocket so I could get up the 1 in 7's !). However, comparing the profiles of my regular rides and that of the Peak100 event, I'm really only on the foothills of the Peak District.

FWIW. I'll cast a vote for your SPECIALIZED Langster ...

But, I would definitely change the gearing for the Peak100 ride ...

If your Road bike's crank has the same BCD and if it has a 39t middle chainring, then I would borrow the 39t chainring for the ride ... minimally.

Based on myself (a poor benchmark), I would also consider getting a 22t ACS CLAW Freewheel to lower the gearing further.

AND, because I once wondered about the need-or-lack-of for more than one gear when riding on mountain roads, I cobbled one bike together with a 32t Chainring + 22t Freewheel:

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The resultant gearing is approximately the same as a 39t Chainring with a 27t Cog. That may be too low a gear for you ...

A 32t Chainring + 20t Freewheel is incrementally lower than a 39t Chainring + 25t Cog which is roughly similar to a 34t Chainwheel with a 22t Cog ... et cetera..

The key to a successful ride with your Langster will be choosing the appropriate gearing.

Sounds like the Peak100 is a great ride, BTW ...

Good luck!

Thanks for your reply. Sorry I was so late replying.
The jury is still out regarding this dilemma. Apart from the fact that my road bike is obviously heavier than the Langster, I could always put it in 12th gear and try not to change, thus simulating a singlespeed. Then if I start to suffer I can always bottle it and go for the granny gears.
Anyway, did 65 miles today in the hills on my singlespeed and some of the hills were painful. I was supposed to take my road bike but the bloody qr skewer broke when i tried to fix the puncture. Grrrr.

FWIW. I'm still voting for your Langster ... with lower gearing ...

If you haven't already done so, I think you should consider a 39t-or-38t Chainring + 22t Freewheel instead of your current 42x20 gearing ...

• ACS makes a 22t Freewheel
  
• someone makes a 23t Freewheel (I forget who, at the moment ... however, it is much more expensive -- figure £50+).
  

BTW. I had considered "bolting" a 24t MTB "granny" (64BCD) chainring to a 16t Freewheel to achieve a lower gearing (I was trying to figure out what I could do with the 16t Freewheel which I wasn't using) -- my recollection is that the bolt holes on the granny matched up with the troughs between the teeth on a 16t (but, maybe not!?!), so 'regular' BMX chainring bolts should have been "okay" to secure the chainring (again, maybe not!?!) ... spacers/washers may be necessary to snug up the chainring bolts.