Apricot Honey Cake
Fig Fluden
Honey Cake
Quince In Syrup
Zwetschgenkuchen
Apricot Honey Cake
"One thing I cannot get out of my head" said Ben Moskovitz, owner of
Star Bakery in Oak Park, Michigan. "Was the food better growing up in
Czechoslovakia or were the people hungrier there? My mother made a
honey cake for the holiday, and it was so delicious. Honey was too
expensive for us, so my mother burned the sugar to make it brown. Here
I use pure honey, but I still think my mother's cake was better and I
know I am wrong. The taste of hers is still in my mouth."
Mr. Moskovitz's European honey cake follows, with a few of my American
additions. Other European Jewish bakers interviewed for this book also
bake with white rye flour and cake flour when we would use all-purpose
flour. I have included both choices.
1/2 cup dried apricots, roughly chopped
1/4 cup dark rum
2 large eggs
1 cup clover honey
1/3 cup vegetable oil
Grated peel and juice of 1 lemon
Grated peel and juice of 1 orange
1/3 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup apricot jam
1 3/4 cup white rye or unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 cup cake or unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup slivered almonds, or roughly chopped walnuts or cashews
In a small bowl, soak the apricots in the rum for at least 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350 and grease a 10- by 5-inch loaf pan. In a
mixing bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk. Stir in the honey, vegetable
oil, grated lemon and orange rind and juice, sugar, salt, and apricot
jam. Sift the 2 flours and the baking soda into another bowl. Strain
the apricots, reserving the excess rum. Add the flour alternately with
the rum to the honey cake mixture. Fold in the apricots. Scoop the batter
into the prepared pan and sprinkle with the nuts. Bake in the oven on
the lower rack for 50-55 minutes, or until the center of the cake is firm
when you pres sit. Remove from the oven and cool on a rack.
Makes 1 Cake.
Fig Fluden
This is one of those recipes that has pretty much disappeared in the
United States, but those who remember it rave about it. A fluden, which
comes from fladni or fladen, "flat cake" in German, is just that, a
flat, double-or often multilayered flaky pastry filled with poppy
seeds, apples and raisins, or cheese. It was originally common to
southern Germany and Alsace-Lorraine, later spreading east to Hungary,
Romania, and other Eastern European countries. Often flavored with
honey, it was eaten in the fall at Rosh Hashanah or Sukkot and is
symbolic, like strudel, of an abundant yield. I have tasted apple
two-layered fluden at Jewish bakeries and restaurants in Paris,
Budapest, Tel Aviv, and Vienna, sometimes made with a butter crust,
sometimes with an oil-based one. But only in Paris have I tasted the
delicious fig rendition, a French fig bar, from Finkelsztajn's Bakery.
(Figs, my father used to tell me, were often eaten in Germany as the
new fruit on the second day of Rosh Hashanah.)
This recipe is a perfect example of the constant flux of Jewish foods.
Today, with the huge population of Tunisian Jews in Paris, it is no
wonder that the Finkelsztajn family spike their fig filling with
bou'ha, a Jewish Tunisian fig liqueur used for kiddush, the blessing
over the wine on the Sabbath. You can, of course, use kirsch or any
other fruit liqueur instead.
The dough:
2/3 cup unsalted butter or parve margarine (or half butter and half
vegetable shortening), cut into tablespoon-size pieces
2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup ice water
The filling:
4 cup water
2 tea bags
Grated peel and juice of 1 lemon
2 cinnamon sticks
3 cup dried figs, stemmed
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons bou'ha, or other fruit liqueur
1 large egg, lightly beaten
The dough:
Place the butter or margarine (or butter and vegetable shortening),
flour, and salt in a food processor fitted with the steel blade.
Process until crumbly and gradually add the water, continuing to
process until a ball is formed. Wrap the dough in waxed paper and
refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Filling and baking the fluden:
Bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat and add the tea bags,
the lemon peel and juice, and the cinnamon sticks. Steep for 1-2
minutes and remove the tea bags. Place the figs in the water and poach
for about 5 minutes.
Drain the figs and the lemon peel, reserving the poaching liquid. Then
place the figs, the lemon peel, the sugar, the liqueur in a food
processor fitted with the steel blade. Process but do not puree; you want
the figs to have texture. Add a tablespoon or so of poaching liquid if
the filling is too dry. Preheat the oven to 400 and grease a
9-inch-square pan. Roll out half the dough to a 1/8-inch thickness. Put
it in the bottom of the pan (it should not go up the sides), and trim off
excess dough. [censored] the dough with a fork. Spoon in the fig mixture.
Roll out the second half of the dough and cover the fig mixture. [censored] a
few holes in the top and brush with the egg. Bake the fluden for about
25 minutes, or until the crust is golden. When done, cut the fluden
into 16 squares. It is wonderful served warm, with whipped cream or ice
cream. Or you can let it cool and eat it as you would a fig bar.
Makes 16.
Honey Cake
Honey cake is often served during Rosh Hashanah because honey
symbolizes wishes for "sweet" things to come. The cake becomes moister
and its flavors deepen a day or two after it's made.
Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 3 hr (includes cooling)
1 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1 cup honey (preferably buckwheat)
2/3 cup vegetable oil
1/2 cup freshly brewed strong coffee, cooled
2 large eggs
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
2 tablespoons whiskey or bourbon
Special equipment: a 9- by 5- by 3-inch loaf pan
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat to 350 F. Oil loaf pan well
and dust with flour, knocking out excess. Whisk together flour, cinnamon,
baking soda, salt, baking powder, and ginger in a small bowl. Whisk
together honey, oil, and coffee in another bowl until well combined.
Beat together eggs and brown sugar in a large bowl with an electric
mixer at high speed 3 minutes. Reduce speed to low, then add honey
mixture and whiskey and mix until blended, about 1 minute. Add flour
mixture and mix until just combined. Finish mixing batter with a rubber
spatula, scraping bottom of bowl. Pour batter into loaf pan (batter
will be thin) and bake 30 minutes. Cover top loosely with foil and
continue to bake until cake begins to pull away from sides of pan and a
wooden pick or skewer inserted in center comes out clean, about 30
minutes more. Cool on a rack 1 hour. Run a knife around side of cake,
then invert rack over pan and invert cake onto rack. Turn cake right side
up and cool completely.
Cooks' note: . Cake keeps, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap or in an
airtight
container, at room temperature 1 week.
Makes 8 to 10 servings.
Quince In Syrup
(Mele Cotogne in Giulebbe)
Poached quinces in a clove-and-cinnamon-scented syrup are served at
Rosh Hashanah and to break the fast at Yom Kippur. In this version, the
quinces are left unpeeled for the preliminary cooking in water, and
then peeled and cooked in syrup. In La cucina livornese, Pia Bedarida
recommends peeling the quinces, letting them rest to take on a reddish
brown color as they oxidize, and then cooking them in syrup. Other
cooks peel the quinces and cook them immediately, but suggest saving
the peels and seeds and cooking them along with the sliced quinces.
Still another recipe uses wine instead of water.
2 pounds quinces
For the syrup:
2 cup sugar
1 cup water, or as needed
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
2 whole cloves
2 cinnamon sticks
In a large saucepan, combine the quinces with water to cover. Bring to
a boil over high heat and cook, uncovered, until barely tender, 10 to
15 minutes. Drain the quinces and, when cool enough to handle, peel,
halve, core, and cut into slices.
To make the syrup: In a saucepan large enough to accommodate the sliced
quinces, combine the sugar, 1 cup water, cloves, and cinnamon sticks.
Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the
sugar. Add the quinces and additional water if needed to cover. Simmer
for 5 minutes. Then, over the course of 12 hours, bring the quince
slices to a boil in the syrup 3 times. boiling them for 5 minutes each
time. This helps to bring up the rich red color of the fruit and allows
them to absorb the syrup over time.
Transfer to a serving dish and refrigerate. Serve chilled.
Makes 6 servings.
Zwetschgenkuchen
(Southern German and Alsatian Italian Plum Torte)
This torte is served traditionally at the high holidays in early fall,
when small blue Italian plums are in season. In southern Germany and
Alsace the pie was made from zwetsche, a local variety of these plums.
My aunt Lisl always used to make a murbeteig crust (a short-crust
butter cookie dought) for this [censored], and sliced each Italian plum into
four crescent shapes. She lined the [censored] with breadcrumbs and then
apricot preserves, which protected the dough during baking, leading to
a crispy crust. She went light on the cinnamon, a spice she felt was
overused in this country. (I agree with her.) My aunt's results, simple
to prepare, were simply delicious.
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
dash of salt
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter or parve margarine
1 large egg yolk
2 teaspoons dried breadcrumbs
1/3 cup apricot preserves
1 tablespoon brandy
2 pounds Italian plums
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
Confectioners' sugar
To make the crust using a food processor, fitted with a metal blade,
pulse the flour, salt, and 1 tablespoon of the sugar together. Cut the
butter or margarine into small pieces, add to the bowl, and process
until crumbly. Add the egg yolk and process until a ball is formed,
adding more flour if necessary.
To make the dough by hand, use your fingers or a pastry blender to work
the butter or margarine into the flour, salt, and 1 tablespoon sugar
until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk and
work the dough into a ball.
Remove the dough from the bowl, dust with flour, and pat into a
flattened circle. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least
a half hour. When you are ready to make the crust, dust your hands and
the dough with flour. Place the dough in the center of a 9-inch pie
plate and with your fingers gently pat in out to cover the bottom and
go up the sides. Preheat the oven to 400 F.
[censored] the crust with the tines of a fork in several places and prebake
the crust on the middle rack for 10 minutes. Remove the curst from the
oven and let it cool slightly. Turn the oven down to 350 F.
Pit and cut the plums into fourths. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs on the
dough, then spoon the apricot preserves on top and drizzle with the
brandy. Place the plum quarters on the crust in a circle so that each
overlaps the next and they eventually form a spiral into the center.
Sprinkle with cinnamon and the remaining sugar. (At this point, if you
wish, you can wrap and freeze the [censored], to bake it later. Just remove
the pie from the freezer one hour before baking.)
Place the [censored] in the oven and bake about 30 to 40 minutes or until the
crust is golden brown and the plums are juicy. Remove from the oven.
Just before serving, sprinkle with confectioners' sugar.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
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