Yup, a little jar of anti-seize will be a lifetime supply
for the average home mechanic. Unfortunately the stuff will
go bad long before that.
I use anti-seize on things that get squeezed very tightly.
Generally that means splines and the crank bolts on splined
cranks. The exception is the crank nut on hubs with outie
threads (like the Suzue). The crank nut gets Loctite to keep
it from backing off and getting loose. The Loctite also
lubricates the threads during assembly so the nut can be
torqued down reliably.
Loctite goes on threads that I don't want backing off and
getting loose.
As a general rule no threads should be assembled dry. They
should be either greased, anti-seized, or Loctited. Dry
threads can't be torqued down reliably and they can become
stuck. Torquing down dry threads very tightly can damage
the threads.
Things like pedal threads get greased before assembly. No
need to use anti-seize there. Don't use anti-seize in place
of bearing grease in pedals or other bearings. Anti-seize is
not a bearing grease and is gritty.
Things like the cinch bolt on a seatpost clamp get either
anti-seize or grease. It just depends on how I'm feeling
at the time and whether I have the grease or the anti-
seize handy.
With the Profile crank tool, Profile supplies a warning that
the threads of the crank tool need to be anti-seized before
threading in the crank tool and banging on it. The Profile
warranty won't cover damage due to threading on the crank
tool with dry threads and then banging on it with a hammer.
--
john_childs - Guinness Mojo
john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
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