Mountain Bikes · Public discussion

newbie v-brake question

Started by Nikster · · Last activity · 4 posts · 1,069 views

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Mountain Bikes
Published
5 June 2005
Last activity
5 June 2005
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Nikster
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  1. Hello, I hope this is the correct forums for this question, I recently purchased a Dawes mojave for commuting to work, mainly to lose more than a few pounds in weight and to get fit for doing some touring biking, all was fine when in the shop but because I have a small family car both wheels had to be removed so I could get it home. Now I put the wheels back on and hooked the brakes back up but on the front brakes one of the sides doesn't budge when releasing the brakes, I know they were working in the store so it's a user error, the whole noodle/boot fitting seems fine so I'm wondering if I need to wrap the brake cable around something to make it less loose, but because I have no clue I thought I would fire it amongst you guys and girls in the hope of some possibilities I could look for, I will take it back to the store if I can't resolve it before next weekend, but that means an extra week eating cake 🙁

    I also checked the sheldonbrown site but his canti adjust pictures only show the back ones 🙂 and I'm too simple to work it out logically for myself.

    So any pointer would be greatly appreciated, and thanks for reading.

    Regards,

    Nik

  2. What has happened is that when you have refitted the wheel it hasn't seated into the stay quite the same as before hence the blocks catching on one side. The first thing to try is to flip the bike upside down and loosen off the wheel.

    Set the wheel so that is equidistant from the pad on each side and slowly tighten up the relsease mechanism. (Bolt or quick release skewer) Spin the wheel to check and pump the brake lever a few times to check it is still centred ok.

    If that doesnt fix it then you need to flip the bike back the right way up and have a look at the sides of you brake calipers. There should be one small screw/allen bolt on each side. These are used to adjust the spring tension. This means that the relative position of the caliper can be adjusted relative to the rim and the other caliper.

    Screwing the bolt of either caliper inwards increases the spring tension and moves the caliper further from the block. It is always preferable to increase spring tension rather than decrease it, because if you decrease it too far the springs won't have any "spring" in them and wont rebound out.

    So look at which block is closer to the rim and turn that screw half a turn inwards. If it is already screwed right in do the reverse on the other caliper. (Half a turn out) Pump the levers 10 times or so and spin the wheel. If it is still catching repeat until it isn't anymore.

    sorry just reread your problem.

    are the springs on both calipers clipped in place correctly?? (ie behind the little bar)

  3. Hi, after posting I spent a few hours in the garage determined to sort it, I flipped the bike on it's back to see what was happening, when spinning the wheel it was as if the wheel wasn't straight and was catching on one of the pads for about 1/8th of a rotation so I think it's all aligned up now and not having the quick release as tight helps, I guess they're only called quick release for a reason, and not quick put back together 😉 the brakes seems to pump ok now so i'll have to see how I get on with it..

    Thanks,

    Nik

  4. glad you got it sorted. make sure the QR skewers are not likely to come undone. Can be a nasty accident.

    Happy riding

    Dave

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