my chain slaps around alot

dirtypuke said:

my chain slaps around alot especially when i jump my bike. i put a lizard skin stay protector on it thinking that it would maybe quiet it down, but it didnt really help. my question is there anyway that i could solve this by shortening the chain or some how adjusting the rear derailour spring? i have looked at chain tensioners kore makes one that looks pretty good, or possibly a different crank set with the bash guards and the rollers. any sugestions? 😕

Hey. Any chain is going to slap or move around; this is especially true when one is jumping or shredding. Even with the roller chain keepers and tensioners there is going to be a noticeable amount of chain slap or movement. There is rarely any appreciable damage done from chain slap once there is something like the lizard skin protectors applied. Shortening the chain by too much will harm the performance of your beloved steed. That being said, having a chain which is too long will cause it to slap like a fiend and be annoying. ASS-U-ming your chain is the correct length you may have to just live with a little noise when you jump/shred. The chain keepers will just "keep" the chain on the rings. Tensioners "may" help with "some" slap. Good luck pukster.

K.

so how do you know if the chain is too long? i am new to free ride i just not used to hearing a chain slap around.

dirtypuke said:

so how do you know if the chain is too long? i am new to free ride i just not used to hearing a chain slap around.

If you put your steed in the big ring in front and largest cog in back your rear derailleur should be stretched out pretty damn much as far as it can (not a combination you would run normally). When it's in the large ring up front and smallest ring in back then the chain should feel very snug, but not crazy. The derailleur should be tensioned, but the bottom cage should not be any more than perpendicular to the ground (preferably angled just a bit towards the rear of the bike).

There are a few differing opinions on chain tightness/lengths. If you run tensioners and roller guides then the chain will obviously need to be longer than "stock", but you still want decent tension on the chain/derailleur. On an XC bike I would run a slacker chain tension to allow for greater gear combinations and ease of shifting, etc. On a FR or DH bike (single ring in front) you can run higher tensions, but there is still going to be a decent amount of chain slap and the associated noise. Since you have already protected the frame with the lizard skin then just enjoy your riding and have fun installing the chain guide (some can be a bit, uh, tricky). Take care and have fun riding.

K.