What is the best way to "Upgrade" the gears on a basic MTB, in regards to gear ratios.
1) Bigger chainringd
2) Closer ratio smaller sprockets
TIA
Graham
A community for cyclists, gear, training and racing.
UK and Europe · Public discussion
Thread details
The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.
What is the best way to "Upgrade" the gears on a basic MTB, in regards to gear ratios.
1) Bigger chainringd
2) Closer ratio smaller sprockets
TIA
Graham
"Graham" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
What is the best way to "Upgrade" the gears on a basic MTB, in regards to
gear ratios.
Quoted message said:1) Bigger chainringd
2>😉 Closer ratio smaller sprockets
Perhaps both, depending on the size of your current chainwheel and cassette.
If you have a non-compact drive chainring theres not much point in changing
it and it may lead to knock-on problems anyway. If you have a 42 tooth ring
then consider changing to 48.
If you have a 9 speed 11-32 cassette you won't actually be able to get a
higher gear ratio on the back but will be able to get closer ratios, say
11-25 or even closer depending on the sort of riding you propose doing. (I
use an 11-19 on an old 7 speed winter bike). Closer ratios are more efficent
for unladen road riding.
If your current smallest cog is 12 or 13 teeth, common on older non-compact
equipped bikes, then of course you can change it to one with 11 teeth.
Pete
"Peter B" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
"Graham" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
What is the best way to "Upgrade" the gears on a basic MTB, in regards to
gear ratios.Quoted message said:1) Bigger chainringd
2>😉 Closer ratio smaller sprockets
Perhaps both, depending on the size of your current chainwheel and
cassette.
If you have a non-compact drive chainring theres not much point in
changing
it and it may lead to knock-on problems anyway. If you have a 42 tooth
ring
then consider changing to 48.
If you have a 9 speed 11-32 cassette you won't actually be able to get a
higher gear ratio on the back but will be able to get closer ratios, say
11-25 or even closer depending on the sort of riding you propose doing. (I
use an 11-19 on an old 7 speed winter bike). Closer ratios are more
efficent
for unladen road riding.
If your current smallest cog is 12 or 13 teeth, common on older
non-compact
equipped bikes, then of course you can change it to one with 11 teeth.Pete
Sorry should have said the chainrings are 42,32,22. The freewhaeel
(Screw-on), is 14-28 seven speed I think.
TIA
Graham
in message <[email hidden]>, Peter B
(') said:
"Graham" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
What is the best way to "Upgrade" the gears on a basic MTB, in regards
to gear ratios.Quoted message said:1) Bigger chainringd
2>😉 Closer ratio smaller sprockets
Perhaps both, depending on the size of your current chainwheel and
cassette. If you have a non-compact drive chainring theres not much
point in changing it and it may lead to knock-on problems anyway. If
you have a 42 tooth ring then consider changing to 48.
One potential gotcha here, the chainstays on an MTD spread a good bit
more than on a road bike and there may not be clearance for a bigger
chainset. Check the clearance behind each of your current chainrings
carefully before purchasing bigger.
--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
;; this is not a .sig
Active in the last 60 minutes
0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total
No signed-in users are active right now.
No known search crawlers active right now.