Mountain to Road - Part 2

Barlaw said:

am not clear on the threadless / threaded issue (although I think that the
Judy Race is threadless, so I presume that the new shock should be
threadless as well?)

Yes, if you want to keep the same headset and stem.

Quoted message said:

or the question of the axle-to-crown distance issue.
Moreover, I am not sure whether I will be able to swap the Judy Race fork
back in, if I wanted to at some later date.

No reason why not.

Quoted message said:

Finally, on the "suspension corrected" issue, I know that I can get the
Tange Ridged Fork for $43.00 (US), and that it comes in a "suspension
corrected" model, but is this the right one for this application?

That fork is actually "suspension corrected" for about a 2 inch travel
fork or less (note that the axle to crown height is only 23mm more than
the non-corrected model). I bought that model to replace a 4" travel
fork on my MTB, knowing that it would change things. It lowered the
front end substantially, and steepened the head and seat tube angles
about two degrees. It also made the BB (and pedal clearance) quite
low... which is ok sometimes, but you have to be careful about pedaling
through turns. That was really the only bad feature. The bike handled
very well on the road, but you will want to move your seat back... make
sure you have some room on the rails to do so.

Or... you could look for a fork that has a longer axle to crown
distance.

When you swap forks you'll need to remove the crown race of the
headset, and install it on the new fork. A piece of pipe that just fits
over the steerer tube works well for this.

Ron Ruff wrote:
[snip good advice]

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Finally, on the "suspension corrected" issue, I know that I can get the
Tange Ridged Fork for $43.00 (US), and that it comes in a "suspension
corrected" model, but is this the right one for this application?

Quoted message said:

That fork is actually "suspension corrected" for about a 2 inch travel
fork or less (note that the axle to crown height is only 23mm more than
the non-corrected model).

Yep, that's much shorter than your average fork at 413 mm.

Quoted message said:

Or... you could look for a fork that has a longer axle to crown
distance.

Like the Surly Instigator at http://www.surlybikes.com/forks.html. 447
mm axle to crown. QBP deals in Surly, so you can get that fork at most
bike shops. I'm sure a shope will be able to give you plenty of other
options, too.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

dvt said:

Yep, that's much shorter than your average fork at 413 mm.

Average fork lengths have increased rapidly in the last five years or so,
and I don't think we've established when Barlaw's bike was built. The
original rigid fork on my 1999 Rockhopper measured 412mm from axle to
crown. I eventually replaced it with a Kona Project 2. P2s have come in
different lengths over the years, but the one I bought was almost an exact
match for the original Specialized fork.

This page lists the P2 as 410mm:

http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/c/SSFK

If Barlaw's Stumpjumper is of a similar vintage to my Rockhopper, I'd say
that a P2 or the Tange fork mentioned above in the thread would be an
excellent match.

Pace RC31s used to come in a 420mm model, and that's still available to
special order, but the standard length is now 440mm.

James Thomson