Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Mix/Match Road/MTB components

Started by balindamood · · Last activity · 4 posts · 1,063 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
28 March 2006
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28 March 2006
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balindamood
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  1. Can't get a straight answer locally, so I'd thought I'd post this question here.

    I have a Scott Sub 20 for commuting and am switching from the MTB straight bars to Scott AX2 aero bars. Its got a Shimano Deore LX rear derailleur (8-speed), Shimano 'sea-of-mediocrity' front derailleur on triple chain rings, and the standard mountain bike brake levers/shifters.

    I WANT to switch to the Shimano rapid-fire type setup (with the shifters on the road-type brake hoods like nearly every road bike has now) on the new bars, but will it work?. The problems I can think of include the heavier MTB brake cables, differences in index pull between road/MTB components, and probable incompatibility with the new front shifter and the triple front chain ring/derailleur.

    Will this work? Will a specific version/maker of the levers which will work better?

    Thanks!

  2. balindamood said:

    Can't get a straight answer locally, so I'd thought I'd post this question here.
    I have a Scott Sub 20 for commuting and am switching from the MTB straight bars to Scott AX2 aero bars. Its got a Shimano Deore LX rear derailleur (8-speed), Shimano 'sea-of-mediocrity' front derailleur on triple chain rings, and the standard mountain bike brake levers/shifters.
    I WANT to switch to the Shimano rapid-fire type setup (with the shifters on the road-type brake hoods like nearly every road bike has now) on the new bars, but will it work?. The problems I can think of include the heavier MTB brake cables, differences in index pull between road/MTB components, and probable incompatibility with the new front shifter and the triple front chain ring/derailleur.
    Will this work? Will a specific version/maker of the levers which will work better?
    Thanks!


    Sounds like a unique setup. If you talk to a good wrench they probably could tell you by checking things like what is the spacing of the chain rings and cassette recommended for the parts you want to buy and your parts you now have, etc, etc... That will take some time for research on their part and time is money so you might offer to pay them something to help you...other wise get out the ruler and spec sheets and research it your self. I have done some mix and match between MTB and Road parts on a touring bike and have gotten things to work together after being told it wouldn't work...you are going to have to do some work and experiment on this your self. Hope you hear something from the list. Good luck.

  3. I looked at the Scott Sub range, the lack of "road" components put me off. So I bought a TT frame and built up a copy, 26" wheels, Ultegra bits, flat bars, Shimano 443 flat bar shifters/front derilleur, etc. http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/australia/en/cycling/products/road_components/flat_handlebar_.html

    I can't see STI Road shifters working with MTB derailleurs, you could use Sora/2200 with the STI shifters. The V-brakes could be a problem with road levers too.

    There are some new Conti tyres that will go well on the Sub, 2006 Ultra Gator Skins (slicks) in 26" x 28mm. 😎

  4. Deanster04 said:

    Sounds like a unique setup. If you talk to a good wrench they probably could tell you by checking things like what is the spacing of the chain rings and cassette recommended for the parts you want to buy and your parts you now have, etc, etc... That will take some time for research on their part and time is money so you might offer to pay them something to help you...other wise get out the ruler and spec sheets and research it your self. I have done some mix and match between MTB and Road parts on a touring bike and have gotten things to work together after being told it wouldn't work...you are going to have to do some work and experiment on this your self. Hope you hear something from the list. Good luck.

    You will be fine on the rear shifting with STI shifters and an MTB rear derailleur. The front will not work quite as well without some tinkering.

    How about this for a suggestion? Get Campagnolo Ergo shifters. They will work with virtually any front derailleur (double or triple) and you can use a Shiftmate to get the rear to work perfectly with your existing Shimano rear derailleur and cassette.

    You can get Campy Mirage 9s shifters for $115 (including full cable set) from Speedgoat.com and a Shiftmate for $35 (from jtek engineering) and you are good to go with the same front and rear derailleur and 8S cassette. If you want to be a little classier, you can find Veloce 9s or 10s for about $150-160 on the web, which is still less than Shimano 105 and probably nicer (less plastic). You can easily upgrade to 9s by changing your cassette, chain, and shiftmate pulley. Loaded tourists and tandem riders have been using Ergo shifters with Shimano wide range derailleurs and cassettes for years. As far as brake cable travel goes, you can use a Travel agent adapter to get the road levers to work better with the mountain V-brakes.

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