rec.sport.unicycling · Public discussion

make a "north shore"

Started by colin340 · · Last activity · 4 posts · 149 views

This thread is locked and is currently read-only.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
rec.sport.unicycling
Published
4 September 2007
Last activity
4 September 2007
Original author
colin340
Posts
4
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
149
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–4 of 4
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. i can't find out what there called
    but i'm work to make a small "north shore" elevated trail but i'm
    wondering how big the gaps between the decking should be so they will
    not trip me up (cuz me and my brothers ride 24 and 20 inch unis)

    any other tips about "north shore" elevated trail

    thank you
    colin

    --
    colin340
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    colin340's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/14925
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/64023

    Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
    ----------------------------------------------------------
    ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
    ----------------------------------------------------------
    http://www.usenet.com

  2. Corbin and I have built a number of ladder bridges and such in
    preparation for this year's CMW trials comp... see:
    http://tinyurl.com/35dpmm

    There isn't any hard and fast measurement for the gap between slats,
    but a good place to start is to use a slat to measure the gap itself...
    that is, if you're using 2x3s for slats, then a 3"ish gap between slats
    is fine. You may want to use more of a gap to conserve wood.. it's
    still totally rideable, probably up to 5" or so. Above that, your ride
    will get bumpier and bumpier.

    As for other tips, pay attention to the slope of your "ups" and
    "downs". If you make your "ups" too steep you may have a hard time
    getting onto your bridge... when in doubt, make it more shallow than
    steep. Also, steep "downs" are rideable, but only as long as you
    provide a decent transition (to flat) at the end. If you run a steep
    down right into the ground (w/o transition) that's a recipe for serious
    injury.

    We've found that 2x6s make for great bridge supports that don't require
    much bracing. 2x4s work well but get wobbly after some distance.

    All the logs we've used for supports have been placed into 1-2 ft deep
    post holes. After compacting the dirt around the log, it doesn't
    require any other bracing to remain upright... which means less work!
    Corbin uses a chainsaw to "square off" the top of each log to allow for
    attaching the 2x6s.

    We've used nails throughout the course, and this allows for a bit of
    flex in the obstacles. To be sure, use longer nails than necessary so
    that flexing doesn't cause things to fall apart.

    As for designing your obstacles, make sure to put some things up that
    are a bit too hard for you to ride. As you get better, your course
    will get easier, and it's nice to have a few things to challenge
    yourself with.

    Have fun building and riding! Send us some pictures when you're done.

    --
    maestro8

    Those are my principles. If you don't like those, I have others. --
    Groucho Marx

    The only way to comprehend what mathematicians mean by Infinity is to
    contemplate the extent of human stupidity. -- François-Marie Arouet de
    Voltaire
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    maestro8's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/7871
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/64023

    Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
    ----------------------------------------------------------
    ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
    ----------------------------------------------------------
    http://www.usenet.com

  3. Have bits that you can rearange or ride from multiple angles, or from
    one section gaging to another, varying the options and difficulty, some
    too hard, as maestro8 said.

    --
    skilewis74

    Ride everywhere and never just ride anywhere. If you can ride where you
    are going within a hour, do it, and if you can do a trick 50-75% of the
    time do it along the way.
    Parafrasing a pro skater when asked for advise to kids who wanted to
    get much better and maybee turn pro one day.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    skilewis74's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/12404
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/64023

    Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
    ----------------------------------------------------------
    ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
    ----------------------------------------------------------
    http://www.usenet.com

  4. Another thing to consider is how you plan to bail. If the bridge is so
    high that you would want to bail onto the bridge, having wider gaps
    makes it more likely for you to catch body parts in the gaps resulting
    in bad injuries.

    --
    phlegm
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    phlegm's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/8382
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/64023

    Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
    ----------------------------------------------------------
    ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
    ----------------------------------------------------------
    http://www.usenet.com

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.