looking for a trials uni



It may seem too expesnive to you but I think you should buy
something of higher quality than that. If you like
unicycling and plan to take your trials to a reasonable
level, buying a lower quality unicycle that breaks will just
cost more money in the end when you get the better unicycle
becayse the other one is broken.

As far as I see it the best way is to get the ultimate
unicycle you can afford (if it's worth it to you) and then
it pretty much shouldn't break. That's what I did and it's
gonna come soon. Next step for me is a helmet :D

--
Robbie - Spoons Taste Good

Jacinto is the king.
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That's a good uni, if you don't mind upgrading after a
few months. Should last if you're nottoo heavy and don't
do super high drops. You can always replace the cranks
and eventually the hub. But if you're gonna go hardcore
right from the bat, I'd do what Robbie suggests and get a
KH or Onza.

--
one wheeled stallion - Guerilla Unicyclist

OWS

"It's all in the mind, not the behind" -Mikefule
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Robbie wrote:
> *As far as I see it the best way is to get the ultimate
> unicycle you can afford (if it's worth it to you) and then
> it pretty much shouldn't break. That's what I did and it's
> gonna come soon. Next step for me is a helmet :D *

I agree with Robbie. Their seems to be a huge gap between
uni parts and their breaking points. in one hand you have
cheap stuff that will break in a matter of hours, and in the
other hand you have parts that will last seemingly forever
but at a major blow to your wallet. for a trials beginner I
would recomend the cheaper unicycles, because you are not
sure how much abuse you will put to various parts. then when
you figure out exactly what parts you are breaking you
should venture into the quality/expensive parts.

I started about 4 years ago on the then popular 20" schwinn
frame with the suzue hub, euro cranks, monty rim, monty x-
lite tire (which is the worst tire ever). and a basic
miyata seat.

hope this helps, mike

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onetrack - street terrorist
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onetrack wrote:
> *
>
> I agree with Robbie. Their seems to be a huge gap between
> uni parts and their breaking points. in one hand you have
> cheap stuff that will break in a matter of hours, and in
> the other hand you have parts that will last seemingly
> forever but at a major blow to your wallet. for a trials
> beginner I would recomend the cheaper unicycles, because
> you are not sure how much abuse you will put to various
> parts. then when you figure out exactly what parts you
> are breaking you should venture into the
> quality/expensive parts.*

I agree with this to a point. However, I also like to
factor in the resale value of the equipment you buy. If you
decide you don't like trials, trying to sell the less
expensive uni will probably end up costing you more because
A) you've already put trials-style wear and tear on a
(relatively) weaker unicycle and B) the price you're going
to want to ask is too close to the new price of the
unicycle. I would reckon that a bombproof unicycle holds
its value much better.

Also, if you get into trials and you break a cheaper one,
forcing you to upgrade, you're potentially out the entire
cost of the unicycle. If you're getting good enough that
you're afraid you'll break it if you go any farther, you're
going to want to look into getting rid of it while it's
still a rideable cycle. Again, I'd personally be wary of
buying a unicycle that someone abused to just under its
breaking point.

I'd suggest going with a splined setup and if trials isn't
for you, sell it to TheObieOne.

--
Allen Wittman - Funny Like A Funeral
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onetrack wrote:
> *n one hand you have cheap stuff that will break in a
> matter of hours*
I wouldn't go quite that far, the nimbus won't take 6'
drops, but you can get away with quite a lot. I've done a
good few 3' drops without much problem., but I'm not that
bothered about big drops. Nice to be able to do them, but
the technical stuff and going up seems more of a challenge
to me. Having said that, if you do want to do much serious
trials the nimbus will eventually break so if you can
increase your budget by £50 you'll get a far stronger uni.

John

--
johnhimsworth - Nullus Anxietas

What if the hokey cokey really is what it's all about?
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go nimbus all that way, im still riding mine, i bought it
because i did not know if trials was for me so im having to
upgrade to stonger hubs which on the whole is making it
coast about £10 more than a Onza or KH so its a fair deal.
As for riding its taken plenty of bashings and drops and is
still working fine, i think the biggest drop that i landed
was about 4" and if u ask me thats plenty big enough.

So, if nimbus had a fan club, Id be in it.

the juggler

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juggling_guy
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There are more then two levels of quality when it comes to
unicycles. For a long time, the Suzue hub was not only the
standard, but just about hte best hub to have. Only in the
past few yeas have better affordable hubs become available.
The unicycle.com hub that comes on the Numbus is better then
the Suzue, but not as good as say the KH. This in not a uni
that will break in a matter of hours. Like someone has said,
it won't take 6 foot drops, but I have done 3 foot drops on
my Suz hub with no damage.

If you use this uni as a light trials machine, about the
only parts you will have to replace are the cranks and the
pedals. Both are much cheaper then getting a bomb proof uni
right off the bat.

BUT... if you are planning to do some hard core stuff, or
you have the money and are willing to spend it, you should
get a better setup. Perhaps a KH, Onza, or something with
a profile.

That's my 2 cents Daniel

--
daino149 - How's it going, Texas?

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I would kike to note that I have never broken a SUZUE hub.
when I had it i weighed about 180lbs i succesfully landed
numerous over-head-high drops. but I have never seen a
square taper crank not bend on me on any drop over 4-5 feet.
I have tried euro, lasco, idol, and black widow cranks all
of which have been severely bent within hours of riding.

my profiles on the other hand have withstood a drop measured
at 7 feet 11 inches, this from a rider weighing over 200lbs.

again, a beginner won't be doing drops over 4 feet so I
would still recomend the nimbus. -mike

--
onetrack - street terrorist
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The big ones cost more to your wallet at the start, but
getting a cheap one ends up more expensive as you buy a bad
one, it breaks and then you have to get the good one in the
end. It's more expensive and you don't get to own the good
one for however long it takes you to break the other one,
meaning less time on a good one. The option was clear to me,
which is why I bought a Profile setup for me uni.

--
Robbie - Spoons Taste Good

Jacinto is the king.
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If you live in Europe, you might want to check out the Qu-ax
unis. 'www.municycle.com' (http://www.municycle.com) There
have been some complaints about heavy frames and to wide
frames, but you could just by a wheelset and a Nimbus II
frame. A bit expensive to order if you do not live in
Europe, but good to check up on anyway.

Rusty

--
rusty
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'Normal' hubs have an axle which has square ends which are
slightly tapered, so that the matching taper on the cranks
fits over the axle and holds it in place. Splined axles have
8 or more slots (splines) cut along the the length of the
axle, and the cranks have ridges that fit into the splines
on the axle. It basically means there is alot more contact
area between the two so it transfers forces better. I think
it makes the effective diameter of the axle bigger as well,
which makes it less prone to twisting. Basically a hub /
crank combination which is a lot stronger than normal hubs
and cranks, but also about three times as expensive. Seeing
as photos are better than words, 'this'
(http://www.unicycle.uk.com/Images/Shop/khhub.jpg) is a
splined hub and 'this'
(http://www.unicycle.uk.com/Images/Shop/hubwidecrmo.jpg) is
a normal hub.

John

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What if the hokey cokey really is what it's all about?
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