Chronicle of the Etape 2004 ;
Wednesday 07.00 hrs : Sitting here in Shannon Airport getting a connection to Stansted and then on to Limoges.
I have checked and re-checked everything.
Made sure my bike was in good working order.
I also made sure that I have plenty of odds and ends with me, such as spare tubes, allyn keys, water bottles, over shoes, rain jacket, spare cables, breakblocks etc.
Only now realise that I have left my digital camera behind me in Limerick.
No time to go back to get it.
I am due to meet up with my friends in Limoges at 6.30pm local time tonight.
Wednesday 13.00 hrs : Sitting here in Stansted Airport (England) trying to keep an eye on my bike, await my connecting flight to Limoges.
My flight to Limoges is due to leave at 3.00pm.
I arrived here at Shannon at 8.45am this morning and realizing that I had
a few hours to kill, went for a spin on my bike here in Stansted.
I was going to cycle to Bishops Stortford and back, but the weather looks a bit dodgy.
I see quite a number of people with bikes here in Stansted, I wonder are they too flying to Limoges ?
A couple of Scottish guys have maps of France, I reckon that they will be on my flight.
If I can get talking to them – I’ll find out.
Weather here is cloudy.
Wednesday 17.30hrs : Limoges : I now get the feeling that the Etape is well and truly on having arrived here.
I got talking with the two lads from Scotland on the flight – they are indeed over for the Etape as well.
Donald and Frasier (sounds like a solicitors firm) have done the Etape for the past two years : they’re brothers in law, married to two sisters from Edinburgh.
Nice blokes.
Just waiting here for my baggage and our bikes.
Weather here is overcast – just like Ireland.
Wednesday 19.30 : Was met at the airport by my friends from Dublin and we drove to
St.Matthieu which is about 75kms west of Limoges (it was the nearest place we could book in to).
Good to see the boys here – they tell me that a lot of cyclists have already converged on Limoges.
My friends been here since last Saturday (easy to see that they’re single !).
I’m starving – we’re off to a restaurant to eat.
Hopefully the food will be good !
Thursday 08.30 : Just up out of bed. The weather is still overcast here sunny, then cloudy,
mostly cloudy though.
Had a very nice meal last night in a local restaurant.
I was a bit apprehensive because unlike going to Paris or other big cities, where we are is very much rural France.
The restaurant we went to last night was a traditional French one.
The patron was a bit suspicious of us initially – when he heard us speaking English.
But as soon as we said “nous sommes Irelandais” – well, it was like flicking a switch.
“Irelandais” he kept saying and crossing his hands in the sign of a crucifix (meaning Catholic).
“Irelandais tres bien” he kept saying “mais vous n’amiz pas l’anglais – comme nous”
(and you don’t like the English – just like us French !).
I said “J’ai dit pardonne et oublie (it is time to forgive and forget).
Our French friend roared with laughter.
I was serious !
We went to the local pub for a pint (was drinking a lager called Kanter – and nice it was
too – no Guinness in this part of the world, unfortunately).
The locals seemed to be aware that we were Irish and the bar man sent over a complimentary drink to our table.
A very nice gesture – you wouldn’t get that at home with the “Cead Mile Failte”
They’re too greedy and mean.
There was some informal signing and Brian (one of the team) got up and sang.
He got a nice round of applause too (bet that’s the first time that that happened !).
We’re only here in St.Matthieu for one night – if the rest of our trip is as pleasant as this, I will be very happy.
Thursday 11.30 : We have been driving the route from the start of the Etape from Limoges to St.Flour.
Weather is still overcast here – which is good because this course is going to be tough going.
It is uphill as soon as you leave Limoges and there is little or no respite from climbing.
The stage map tells me that there are several category 4 and 3 climbs, with one category
2 climb and one category 1 climb at about 180kms in to the 237kms course.
Some of the category 4 and 3 climbs look very tough.
Category 2 and category 1 are going to be tough anyway but so are the lower climbs.
Thankfully, I packed the triple setup on my bike.
The Tour book states that they estimate 6+ hours for the pros to finish this stage.
Beforehand I had factored in 10 hours cycling time – I might revise this to 11 hours.
I just hope that it’s not too hot on Sunday.
Myself and the team discussed this and we considered trying to get as much of the course covered as quickly as possible before it gets really warm on Sunday.
Thursday 19.30 : Just back from a spin on the bikes with the lads.
The mood is pretty somber following our look at the course this morning.
Initially, everyone had been pretty loud – with plenty of banter.
But now I think that the weight of what we’re doing on Sunday is starting to get to people.
There were plenty of cyclists out on the course from all countries.
I got chatting to a group of Aussie and a group of American, riders.
Both sets were pretty confident about the Etape – although interestingly neither group had driven the full course.
They’re staying pretty close to where we are – so we said we’d meet up for a pint later.
Luckily, we can stay in the B&B in St.Matthieu again tonight (the landlady told us that she had a late cancellation).
I’m glad – I like our B&B and I like St.Matthieu.
I am going to bring my wife back here on holiday.
One drawback though – there is no access to a newspaper or TV in English : my French is passable.
Thank God, I’ve got my laptop – can see what the papers are writing in English !
We’re off to the restaurant now – we’re going to stick with the same place we went to last night.
Bon appetite !
Thursday 23.30 : Early to bed tonight.
The patron at the restaurant must have thought that we were being standoffish because we did not drink alcohol tonight.
I explained to him about the Etape and the fact that we need to be “pure” in body.
I am not sure that he was convinced.
I will be sad to be leaving St.Matthieu, I like it here.
We’re moving to a village, south of the Limoges-St.Flour route, tomorrow morning.
I’m sharing the room here with my team mate.
My room mate is watching TV (French TV) : there are no other TV channels.
I can’t sleep at the moment – the ambiance of our group and what we saw today is playing on my mind.
How do I feel ? Nervous but reasonably confident, I think.
It puts in to perspective what the pros do – covering that course, with 8 days cycling already in the legs and with the guts of a further two weeks to go, just brings home how tough the pros really are.
We’re driving tomorrow to see the end of the stage at Angers and then we’re driving back to our new B&B in Aurillac.
I hope the new B&B is as nice as this one.
We’re staying in a place called Aurillac about 15 miles west of St.Flour.
Time to try to get some sleep.
Friday : 07.30 :
Just off the Angers to see the end of the stage of the TDF, after all it makes sense to at least see the TDF when in France.
Friday 20.30 :
We’re back in Aurillac which is near St.Flour : it was great to get to see a stage of the TDF.
The weather in Anger was just like it is here in Aurillac – overcast and about 18 degrees.
I was positioned about 3kms from the finish line in Anger.
The peloton flew by – they must have been going about 40mph.
I believe that there was a big crash in the final kilometer – I’ll watch the TV tonight.
Great to see the TDF live, though !
Saturday 11.00
Just back up from breakfast – the plan today is to relax as much as possible.
This will mean lying on my bed and reading or watching TV.
We’ve bought in some food and the landlady is letting us cook some pasta in the kitchen.
We’ve plenty of salad as well.
I am reading my way through Geoffrey Wheatcrofts book “Le Tour” - fascinating stuff.
Saturday 20.30.
Time to get some sleep : I have been relaxing all day and it is hard to sleep.
I have my laptop with me and I am getting lots of mails with good wishes for the Etape.
Let’s hope I can deliver !
For the Etape, I will be recording my thoughts and observations – so will at least have a record of the day for future reference.
Sunday : 11th July 2004 :
Limoges 07.00hrs : 7000 cyclists signed in and ready to go.
Have been up since 4.30 to eat and to make sure that my bike
Is set up correctly and to make sure I have packed spare parts etc.
First 50kms were uphill not especially steep but draining enough.
People who accelerated away are already coming back to me.
I am able to use 42x17 in this part of the course.
Road undulating up and down.
LeMont Gragan : first of the 9 listed climbs : gearing back to
42x19 but surprisingly, I am going reasonably well.
It is a steady climb – wide roads.
Riders are now well spread out.
Time 09.30
Nice descent and approaching the Col de Lestards.
Col de Lestards : now using 42x21 and sometimes 42x19,
This climb feels steep and is longer than the Le Mont Gargan but not too difficult.
The climb was tough though and the descent (the first real steep descent) is very
Quick.
I am approaching St Yrieix de Dejalat.
Time 10.55
St Yrieix de Dejalat : This is an awkward little climb – it’s listed as being 750m
But it feels longer : I am now using 42x21 and I can feel the lactic beginning to build
Here.
Again the descent is very quick in to a town called Egletons.
Am now eating and drinking well knowing that it will start to get serious
Pretty soon.
Time : 12.15
Cote de Soursac : Fast smooth roads from St Yrieix to the foot of Soursac.
This 20km ride is quite pleasant although there are a series of sharp bends
At Barrages de L’Aigle going over the Dordogne river.
Soursac is a reasonable climb using 42x21 or 42x23 going up it.
Time 13.10
Cote de Montplaisir : This is a steep climb and I am using 42x23 all the way.
There is no respite from the steepness here.
Climbing is difficult here.
Some people are off their bikes and walking up this climb.
It is tough.
Time 14.10
Col de Neronne : This feels easier than Montplaisir, even though it’s a longer climb.
I have managed to gear up to 42x21 on this climb.
Legs feel heavy now : I am eating like Ullrich now !
The descent is fast and tree lined.
Time : 14.55
Col du Pas de Peyyrol (Puy Mary) :
Ballbreaker.
Category 1 climb and thank God I have the triple with me otherwise I would be
Walking.
This is a very very tough climb – thank God it’s not too warm otherwise I would be fried.
At one point a 17% sign appears and I immediately gear down to 32x17.
Even with this low gear, I find it hard to keep any sort of momentum.
The gradient is simply very hard.
This is pain now and the only thing to do is to grit ones teeth and just try to
Ignore the pain.
Saying prayers to Merckx, Kelly, Thys : get me out of this hell !
I get to the top of Puy Mary and I get off my bike to look around.
I don’t have a camera so I need to see this sight before I resume.
I didn’t think that I would make it.
Happy but tired.
Time 16.15.
Col de Entropment :
This is a tough climb but after Puy Mary, it’s bearable.
Legs have a serious lactic content but I sense that we’re over the worst.
Confidence has built since I got over Puy Mary and I am back in the 42x21.
Water is running low – descended Entropment and stopped at a shop on Murat.
The owner gave me mars bars and water for free !
He must have recognised me as an Etapper.
Merci !
Time 17.10.
Col de Prat de Bouc :
Last climb of the day – it’s a 6 percenter.
I make my way steadily up this climb – I feel refreshed after the mars and water.
Legs are heavy though now – very heavy with lactic buildup.
Time :18.25
Sting in the tail :
Villedieu !
This is not on the official profile but there is a snorter of a climb here.
It last perhaps between a mile or two but it’s 10% !
Arrive : St Flour 19.27
Limoges – St Flour Etape : actual cycling time 10hrs 53mins.
Between food stops etc : total time 12hrs 28mins.
Beer time !
Wednesday 07.00 hrs : Sitting here in Shannon Airport getting a connection to Stansted and then on to Limoges.
I have checked and re-checked everything.
Made sure my bike was in good working order.
I also made sure that I have plenty of odds and ends with me, such as spare tubes, allyn keys, water bottles, over shoes, rain jacket, spare cables, breakblocks etc.
Only now realise that I have left my digital camera behind me in Limerick.
No time to go back to get it.
I am due to meet up with my friends in Limoges at 6.30pm local time tonight.
Wednesday 13.00 hrs : Sitting here in Stansted Airport (England) trying to keep an eye on my bike, await my connecting flight to Limoges.
My flight to Limoges is due to leave at 3.00pm.
I arrived here at Shannon at 8.45am this morning and realizing that I had
a few hours to kill, went for a spin on my bike here in Stansted.
I was going to cycle to Bishops Stortford and back, but the weather looks a bit dodgy.
I see quite a number of people with bikes here in Stansted, I wonder are they too flying to Limoges ?
A couple of Scottish guys have maps of France, I reckon that they will be on my flight.
If I can get talking to them – I’ll find out.
Weather here is cloudy.
Wednesday 17.30hrs : Limoges : I now get the feeling that the Etape is well and truly on having arrived here.
I got talking with the two lads from Scotland on the flight – they are indeed over for the Etape as well.
Donald and Frasier (sounds like a solicitors firm) have done the Etape for the past two years : they’re brothers in law, married to two sisters from Edinburgh.
Nice blokes.
Just waiting here for my baggage and our bikes.
Weather here is overcast – just like Ireland.
Wednesday 19.30 : Was met at the airport by my friends from Dublin and we drove to
St.Matthieu which is about 75kms west of Limoges (it was the nearest place we could book in to).
Good to see the boys here – they tell me that a lot of cyclists have already converged on Limoges.
My friends been here since last Saturday (easy to see that they’re single !).
I’m starving – we’re off to a restaurant to eat.
Hopefully the food will be good !
Thursday 08.30 : Just up out of bed. The weather is still overcast here sunny, then cloudy,
mostly cloudy though.
Had a very nice meal last night in a local restaurant.
I was a bit apprehensive because unlike going to Paris or other big cities, where we are is very much rural France.
The restaurant we went to last night was a traditional French one.
The patron was a bit suspicious of us initially – when he heard us speaking English.
But as soon as we said “nous sommes Irelandais” – well, it was like flicking a switch.
“Irelandais” he kept saying and crossing his hands in the sign of a crucifix (meaning Catholic).
“Irelandais tres bien” he kept saying “mais vous n’amiz pas l’anglais – comme nous”
(and you don’t like the English – just like us French !).
I said “J’ai dit pardonne et oublie (it is time to forgive and forget).
Our French friend roared with laughter.
I was serious !
We went to the local pub for a pint (was drinking a lager called Kanter – and nice it was
too – no Guinness in this part of the world, unfortunately).
The locals seemed to be aware that we were Irish and the bar man sent over a complimentary drink to our table.
A very nice gesture – you wouldn’t get that at home with the “Cead Mile Failte”
They’re too greedy and mean.
There was some informal signing and Brian (one of the team) got up and sang.
He got a nice round of applause too (bet that’s the first time that that happened !).
We’re only here in St.Matthieu for one night – if the rest of our trip is as pleasant as this, I will be very happy.
Thursday 11.30 : We have been driving the route from the start of the Etape from Limoges to St.Flour.
Weather is still overcast here – which is good because this course is going to be tough going.
It is uphill as soon as you leave Limoges and there is little or no respite from climbing.
The stage map tells me that there are several category 4 and 3 climbs, with one category
2 climb and one category 1 climb at about 180kms in to the 237kms course.
Some of the category 4 and 3 climbs look very tough.
Category 2 and category 1 are going to be tough anyway but so are the lower climbs.
Thankfully, I packed the triple setup on my bike.
The Tour book states that they estimate 6+ hours for the pros to finish this stage.
Beforehand I had factored in 10 hours cycling time – I might revise this to 11 hours.
I just hope that it’s not too hot on Sunday.
Myself and the team discussed this and we considered trying to get as much of the course covered as quickly as possible before it gets really warm on Sunday.
Thursday 19.30 : Just back from a spin on the bikes with the lads.
The mood is pretty somber following our look at the course this morning.
Initially, everyone had been pretty loud – with plenty of banter.
But now I think that the weight of what we’re doing on Sunday is starting to get to people.
There were plenty of cyclists out on the course from all countries.
I got chatting to a group of Aussie and a group of American, riders.
Both sets were pretty confident about the Etape – although interestingly neither group had driven the full course.
They’re staying pretty close to where we are – so we said we’d meet up for a pint later.
Luckily, we can stay in the B&B in St.Matthieu again tonight (the landlady told us that she had a late cancellation).
I’m glad – I like our B&B and I like St.Matthieu.
I am going to bring my wife back here on holiday.
One drawback though – there is no access to a newspaper or TV in English : my French is passable.
Thank God, I’ve got my laptop – can see what the papers are writing in English !
We’re off to the restaurant now – we’re going to stick with the same place we went to last night.
Bon appetite !
Thursday 23.30 : Early to bed tonight.
The patron at the restaurant must have thought that we were being standoffish because we did not drink alcohol tonight.
I explained to him about the Etape and the fact that we need to be “pure” in body.
I am not sure that he was convinced.
I will be sad to be leaving St.Matthieu, I like it here.
We’re moving to a village, south of the Limoges-St.Flour route, tomorrow morning.
I’m sharing the room here with my team mate.
My room mate is watching TV (French TV) : there are no other TV channels.
I can’t sleep at the moment – the ambiance of our group and what we saw today is playing on my mind.
How do I feel ? Nervous but reasonably confident, I think.
It puts in to perspective what the pros do – covering that course, with 8 days cycling already in the legs and with the guts of a further two weeks to go, just brings home how tough the pros really are.
We’re driving tomorrow to see the end of the stage at Angers and then we’re driving back to our new B&B in Aurillac.
I hope the new B&B is as nice as this one.
We’re staying in a place called Aurillac about 15 miles west of St.Flour.
Time to try to get some sleep.
Friday : 07.30 :
Just off the Angers to see the end of the stage of the TDF, after all it makes sense to at least see the TDF when in France.
Friday 20.30 :
We’re back in Aurillac which is near St.Flour : it was great to get to see a stage of the TDF.
The weather in Anger was just like it is here in Aurillac – overcast and about 18 degrees.
I was positioned about 3kms from the finish line in Anger.
The peloton flew by – they must have been going about 40mph.
I believe that there was a big crash in the final kilometer – I’ll watch the TV tonight.
Great to see the TDF live, though !
Saturday 11.00
Just back up from breakfast – the plan today is to relax as much as possible.
This will mean lying on my bed and reading or watching TV.
We’ve bought in some food and the landlady is letting us cook some pasta in the kitchen.
We’ve plenty of salad as well.
I am reading my way through Geoffrey Wheatcrofts book “Le Tour” - fascinating stuff.
Saturday 20.30.
Time to get some sleep : I have been relaxing all day and it is hard to sleep.
I have my laptop with me and I am getting lots of mails with good wishes for the Etape.
Let’s hope I can deliver !
For the Etape, I will be recording my thoughts and observations – so will at least have a record of the day for future reference.
Sunday : 11th July 2004 :
Limoges 07.00hrs : 7000 cyclists signed in and ready to go.
Have been up since 4.30 to eat and to make sure that my bike
Is set up correctly and to make sure I have packed spare parts etc.
First 50kms were uphill not especially steep but draining enough.
People who accelerated away are already coming back to me.
I am able to use 42x17 in this part of the course.
Road undulating up and down.
LeMont Gragan : first of the 9 listed climbs : gearing back to
42x19 but surprisingly, I am going reasonably well.
It is a steady climb – wide roads.
Riders are now well spread out.
Time 09.30
Nice descent and approaching the Col de Lestards.
Col de Lestards : now using 42x21 and sometimes 42x19,
This climb feels steep and is longer than the Le Mont Gargan but not too difficult.
The climb was tough though and the descent (the first real steep descent) is very
Quick.
I am approaching St Yrieix de Dejalat.
Time 10.55
St Yrieix de Dejalat : This is an awkward little climb – it’s listed as being 750m
But it feels longer : I am now using 42x21 and I can feel the lactic beginning to build
Here.
Again the descent is very quick in to a town called Egletons.
Am now eating and drinking well knowing that it will start to get serious
Pretty soon.
Time : 12.15
Cote de Soursac : Fast smooth roads from St Yrieix to the foot of Soursac.
This 20km ride is quite pleasant although there are a series of sharp bends
At Barrages de L’Aigle going over the Dordogne river.
Soursac is a reasonable climb using 42x21 or 42x23 going up it.
Time 13.10
Cote de Montplaisir : This is a steep climb and I am using 42x23 all the way.
There is no respite from the steepness here.
Climbing is difficult here.
Some people are off their bikes and walking up this climb.
It is tough.
Time 14.10
Col de Neronne : This feels easier than Montplaisir, even though it’s a longer climb.
I have managed to gear up to 42x21 on this climb.
Legs feel heavy now : I am eating like Ullrich now !
The descent is fast and tree lined.
Time : 14.55
Col du Pas de Peyyrol (Puy Mary) :
Ballbreaker.
Category 1 climb and thank God I have the triple with me otherwise I would be
Walking.
This is a very very tough climb – thank God it’s not too warm otherwise I would be fried.
At one point a 17% sign appears and I immediately gear down to 32x17.
Even with this low gear, I find it hard to keep any sort of momentum.
The gradient is simply very hard.
This is pain now and the only thing to do is to grit ones teeth and just try to
Ignore the pain.
Saying prayers to Merckx, Kelly, Thys : get me out of this hell !
I get to the top of Puy Mary and I get off my bike to look around.
I don’t have a camera so I need to see this sight before I resume.
I didn’t think that I would make it.
Happy but tired.
Time 16.15.
Col de Entropment :
This is a tough climb but after Puy Mary, it’s bearable.
Legs have a serious lactic content but I sense that we’re over the worst.
Confidence has built since I got over Puy Mary and I am back in the 42x21.
Water is running low – descended Entropment and stopped at a shop on Murat.
The owner gave me mars bars and water for free !
He must have recognised me as an Etapper.
Merci !
Time 17.10.
Col de Prat de Bouc :
Last climb of the day – it’s a 6 percenter.
I make my way steadily up this climb – I feel refreshed after the mars and water.
Legs are heavy though now – very heavy with lactic buildup.
Time :18.25
Sting in the tail :
Villedieu !
This is not on the official profile but there is a snorter of a climb here.
It last perhaps between a mile or two but it’s 10% !
Arrive : St Flour 19.27
Limoges – St Flour Etape : actual cycling time 10hrs 53mins.
Between food stops etc : total time 12hrs 28mins.
Beer time !
