I have been using an iBike on daily commutes and training rides for over a year. I am on my second unit as I believe that the first one demonstrated some technical issues and was never properly functioning. I ride PowerTaps on my road bikes and decided to try an iBike on my commuter.
The iBike is a functional but truly quirky unit, that eats batteries and requires daily and often an as-you-ride calibration effort by comparison. I know guys who profess to buy their batteries for these units in blocks of hundreds. Riding the unit this winter on commutes, I could easily go through a battery every few rides. In some of the coldest conditions (for my part of North Texas) I would even be needing to make battery changes during my long rides.
Here is a brief description from an iBike user of what the manufacturer will agree that you will likely need to look at or do each time you ride:
Before each ride starting from home, I:
(1) Weigh myself, with bike and equipment, and enter the value in
Set Up;*
(2) Perform a tilt calibration; and
(3) Zero the wind off-set (a step which, I've discovered, is
extremely important for accuracy).
* When I ride home from work, I usually omit the weigh-in and
assume that my morning weight is "close enough."
In neither case do I perform a coast-down as part of my routine.
Just as John Hamann had assured me, since installing a standard
mount several weeks ago, I've seldom needed to do a new coast-down.
Any inaccuracies that I've experienced during that time have seemed
attributable to (a) cold weather; (b) failure to calibrate tilt
(particularly when removing and replacing the unit on its mount);
or (c) failure to zero the wind offset (particularly following
changes in weather). Hence the set-up routine above. When I do
follow this routine, however, my unit's readings are consistent and
seemingly accurate.
The biggest issue that I find in terms of data reliability is the unit's tendency to produce psychotically incorrect power spikes. Even with all the firmware updates and recommendations for use this is still an issue. The result is that these spikes dramatically skew your power numbers and related training calculations, especially when you use CyclingPeaks. Just a couple of these spikes a ride can really mess up your overall power profile. One time your max power output may be 1200 watts, another time it could be 2200. There is no rhyme or reason to it. But there is sure no way to train with that kind of screwed up data effect. The unit still has issues over rough roads too, which goes a long way to hender its inherent ability to translate rides into usuable and repeatable ride data. Take a look at the iBike forums and see what you think about the comments from some of the other users though, and gauge what you can live with on your type of intended rides.
The main frustration that I have had in all of this though is that for $400 a power device damn well better work the way that it says it will, and without a lot of calibration, on the bike and off the bike guess work and data interpellation. That has not been the experience with the iBike. Most of what you would now be using as guidelines for utilizing this device came from on the road users, not from the manufacturer, and apparently will continue to be so down the road. There are an amazingly large bunch of user who apparently don't have anything better to do than to do pro bono R&D for these iBike units. Truthfully, I am not one of them. If you are, you may well love this unit for that same reason.
My overall reaction to a properly functioning iBike Pro unit is that they don't perform nearly as easily and consistently as does a PowerTap. On the PowerTap you set it up, zero out the torque, and you get your ride data. Clearly PowerTaps can have torque tube issues, manufacturing defect issues, issues with keeping out the wet, and installation do's and don'ts too. Nevertheless, they are a ride-and-use device, without a lot of intrigue or voodoo. If you ride a lot, you will likely go through HR strap batteries every few months, a CPU battery a couple of times a year, and hub batteries about once a year. There really isn't much that you can do to influence the data output except via your pedals. And after a few years of training with a PowerTap, I can consistently guess within 10-15 watts of what I am generating just about every mile of a ride, solo, group, paceline, climb, you name it. The data it generates is that consistent, and lends itself well to that kind of on-the-road interpretation and repeatability.
Again though, everybody's training conditions, methods and expectations aren't the same though. The best advice that I can give is for you to do your homework and spend your money based upon what you can live with.
Now I have to go pee.