How to set up a dumb trainer for optimal performance, without wasting hours of tweaking and trial-and-error, is a question that seems ridiculously simple yet deceptively complex, given the plethora of conflicting advice and snake oil salesmen touting their magic formulas for getting the most out of these devices.
Can we please dispense with the fluffy advice and pseudo-scientific jargon, and get down to brass tacks: what are the objective, scientifically-supported methods for calibrating a dumb trainers resistance unit, flywheel, and other critical components to maximize efficiency, accuracy, and most importantly, the all-important watts-per-dollar ratio?
What are the most effective techniques for setting up a pre-smart trainer-era dumb trainer to accurately simulate the toughest climbing routes and sprints, without resorting to expensive third-party adapters or mods?
Should we prioritize perfecting the trainers static resistance curve, or is that even possible without a fancy power meter and a PhD in physics? Are there any reliable methods for maintaining a consistent and accurate power output on these older trainers, short of re-magnetizing the flywheel or installing a custom resistance unit?
What about the inevitable and dreaded trainer bounce and the totally-not-fun-at-all process of trying to dial in the perfect tire pressure, trainer roller tension, and skewer tightness to minimize slippage and vibration – are there any tricks of the trade that dont involve guesswork or trial-and-error?
Give me the lowdown, straight up, no-nonsense: how do we optimize our dumb trainers for maximum performance without sacrificing our sanity, wallets, or social lives?
Can we please dispense with the fluffy advice and pseudo-scientific jargon, and get down to brass tacks: what are the objective, scientifically-supported methods for calibrating a dumb trainers resistance unit, flywheel, and other critical components to maximize efficiency, accuracy, and most importantly, the all-important watts-per-dollar ratio?
What are the most effective techniques for setting up a pre-smart trainer-era dumb trainer to accurately simulate the toughest climbing routes and sprints, without resorting to expensive third-party adapters or mods?
Should we prioritize perfecting the trainers static resistance curve, or is that even possible without a fancy power meter and a PhD in physics? Are there any reliable methods for maintaining a consistent and accurate power output on these older trainers, short of re-magnetizing the flywheel or installing a custom resistance unit?
What about the inevitable and dreaded trainer bounce and the totally-not-fun-at-all process of trying to dial in the perfect tire pressure, trainer roller tension, and skewer tightness to minimize slippage and vibration – are there any tricks of the trade that dont involve guesswork or trial-and-error?
Give me the lowdown, straight up, no-nonsense: how do we optimize our dumb trainers for maximum performance without sacrificing our sanity, wallets, or social lives?