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How Much Glue?

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Published
29 September 2005
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11 October 2005
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Rod
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  1. Chalo said:

    Gross. I used to use a mug & brush with shaving soap, but switched to
    the hypo-allergenic type of shaving gel to streamline the process. I'm
    not unusually sensitive to chemical agents-- as a machinist, I get
    lubricants, coolants and/or solvents on me every day-- but I have
    observed that run-of-the-mill shaving cream can cause the symptoms you
    mention.

    While I never had symptoms from canned shaving cream, I really like a
    mug and brush -- I'm not sure if that's a closet-retro urge or
    something. Anyway, when I bought a badger brush many years ago, I was
    hesitant over the fate of the poor badgers. The helpful clerk assured me
    that they led pampered lives except for being occasionally sheared --
    then I felt bad for the poor guys who did the shearing. Talk about a
    tough job! Some days I feel like I've been shearing badgers...

  2. Peter Cole said:

    Chalo wrote:

    While I never had symptoms from canned shaving cream, I really like a
    mug and brush -- I'm not sure if that's a closet-retro urge or
    something. Anyway, when I bought a badger brush many years ago, I was
    hesitant over the fate of the poor badgers. The helpful clerk assured
    me that they led pampered lives except for being occasionally sheared
    -- then I felt bad for the poor guys who did the shearing. Talk about
    a tough job! Some days I feel like I've been shearing badgers...

    I went over to using oil (http://tinyurl.com/bbzu8) years ago, much cleaner,
    doesn't take all the mositure out if your face, get far fewer spots ever
    since.

    --
    Andy Morris

    AndyAtJinkasDotFreeserve.Co.UK

    Love this:
    Put an end to Outlook Express's messy quotes
    http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/oe-quotefix/

  3. Chalo said:

    If I decided I just *had* to use wooden rims or something, I'd
    definitely stick the tires on with tape instead of glue. Taking a
    whole day or more to mount a tire is just foolish IMO.

    What's this "whole day" business? I pre-glue the base tape of my spare
    tubular in advance until needed. Then, it takes five minutes to apply a
    coat of glue to the rim and mount the tire. Sure, you should wait
    several hours for it to dry before riding on it, so I put a spare wheel
    on the bike if I want to ride immediately. Most serious cyclists own
    more than one pair of wheels, don't they?

  4. Mike Krueger said:
    Chalo said:

    If I decided I just *had* to use wooden rims or something, I'd
    definitely stick the tires on with tape instead of glue. Taking a
    whole day or more to mount a tire is just foolish IMO.

    What's this "whole day" business? I pre-glue the base tape of my spare
    tubular in advance until needed. Then, it takes five minutes to apply a
    coat of glue to the rim and mount the tire. Sure, you should wait
    several hours for it to dry before riding on it, so I put a spare wheel
    on the bike if I want to ride immediately. Most serious cyclists own
    more than one pair of wheels, don't they?

    No, serious cyclists own more than one *bike*. I have seventeen bikes
    at last count, but AFAIK no single rear wheel will directly swap among
    any two of them. Remember, real tires come in all shapes and sizes for
    all kinds of bikes, even if tubies are only available in basically one
    size for basically one kind of bike.

    I am certain that most riders who use tubies have more than one
    wheelset per bike. But that says a lot all by itself.

    I have no tubulars among my collection of multifarious bikes, so I have
    to trust what I read from the likes of Mr. Tubular Tire himself, Peter
    Chisholm:

    " Light coat onto the rim, one onto the tire, onto the rim, onto
    " the tire. let all dry a wee bit. One last onto the rim, mount
    " tire with the glue on the rim wet, to then center the tire
    " (if the glue is too dry it will stick like mad, not allowing
    " it to be centered). Pump it up to pressure and let set for 24hrs.

    Sounds like at least a whole day to me.

    Chalo Colina

  5. In theory the only advantage now with sew-ups is that the rims can be
    (and normally are) designed without any extra material to keep the tire
    closed. That material accounts for a nominal amount of weight though in
    well designed rims it is not worth considering. However, if you are
    looking at the very top end of wheels (even most pros don't use these
    wheels) then you either have to do without (a clincher model) or you
    have to put up with a significant weight disadvantage. I don't know if
    the current models are still made this way, but the example I am
    thinking of is the ZIPP 303 and 404 models. When I looked at the
    clincher vs. sew-up weights there was a 100+ gram weight difference per
    wheel. There are others that have the same compromise where the sew-ups
    are all CF material but the clinchers have a lip add-on that causes the
    extra weight. Again, this may not be up to the minute but the last time
    I checked there were very few sub 1200 gram clincher wheels.

    IMO, it pays to compare each time you buy new wheels. You wouldn't know
    it by observation, but there is no reason I can see for one to have
    both clincher and sew-ups available. If you are looking at your first
    race set then most likely clinchers will serve you best. However, when
    looking for certain niches of high performance race wheel, sew-ups are
    definitely worth considering.

    I stopped using sew-ups whenever there is no support vehicle(s). It is
    too much of a pain in the ass to carry a spare sew-up tire. With
    clinchers I carry 2 spare ultra-light (and compact) tubes and a small
    patch kit. Lastly, it is worth noting that clincher rims are much
    easier to damage when riding on a flat.

    Back in the day (20 + years ago?) I recall an occasional race won by a
    guy crossing the line on a flat or near flat tire. Not only are
    clincher rims more likely to become damaged this way, they are also
    more likely to come off the rim in my experience. I have never had a
    sew-up come off the rim due to a flat but I have had clincher tires
    come off more than a few times due to flats. WRT equipment choices, one
    last consideration is that sew-ups are getting very expensive I am sure
    due to the smaller volumes produced these days and cheap sew-ups are
    more difficult to repair and some times not worth the effort. When
    Vittorias were made in Italy, I used to use the Cx front and rear and I
    would save them up each year to repair in batches. I am told that back
    when cycling was even more esoteric in the US than it is now, guys used
    to have "patch parties" each winter. Maybe that was just another urban
    legend. Anyway, most people know that when Vittoria production was
    moved to Thailand, the staff responsible for the hand made tires formed
    the new company "Veloflex". I find the Thai made clinchers are pretty
    good value but the Veloflex tires (all models) are even better IMO than
    Vittoria was. The Veloflex sew-ups are not that hard to repair once you
    learn the trick. I imagine there are web pages dedicated to all the
    tips I know and then some but I will say make sure you get a repair kit
    with good quality threads and needles, and latex to properly re-attach
    the base tape. It some times also comes in handy for sidewall touch-ups
    (keeping in mind that natural fibers like cotton and silk can decompose
    when exposed to moisture).

  6. Chris McReynolds said:

    In theory the only advantage now with sew-ups is that the rims can be
    (and normally are) designed without any extra material to keep the tire
    closed. That material accounts for a nominal amount of weight though in
    well designed rims it is not worth considering.

    What do you think that material is not doing? The entire cross section
    of the rim supports spoke tension in compression as an arch and all of
    it is necessary. You seem to think that the rim does nothing in
    bending or compression while both of these characteristics are
    essential to a durable wheel. It is the heavy deep "V" shape of the
    16-spoke aero rims that make the low spoke count possible.

    Quoted message said:

    However, if you are looking at the very top end of wheels (even most
    pros don't use these wheels) then you either have to do without (a
    clincher model) or you have to put up with a significant weight
    disadvantage. I don't know if the current models are still made
    this way, but the example I am thinking of is the ZIPP 303 and 404
    models. When I looked at the clincher vs. sew-up weights there was
    a 100+ gram weight difference per wheel. There are others that have
    the same compromise where the sew-ups are all CF material but the
    clinchers have a lip add-on that causes the extra weight. Again,
    this may not be up to the minute but the last time I checked there
    were very few sub 1200 gram clincher wheels.

    To make up for that, former clincher wheels were more durable than
    tubular rims although they weighed only 50g more. I didn't see a
    single rim that I would buy or recommend while at InterBike.
    All-carbon wheels may have surfaces where brake pads could run but
    they do not absorb heat as aluminum does so the brake pads will burn
    off as they did in the days of wooden rims.

    Quoted message said:

    IMO, it pays to compare each time you buy new wheels. You wouldn't know
    it by observation, but there is no reason I can see for one to have
    both clincher and sew-ups available. If you are looking at your first
    race set then most likely clinchers will serve you best. However, when
    looking for certain niches of high performance race wheel, sew-ups are
    definitely worth considering.

    That's fine, but why? This sounds more like a mantra than a technical
    explanation of why one should ride clinchers. You must have seen the
    RR data:

    http://www.terrymorse.com/bike/imgs/rolres.gif

    with the RR losses due to rim glue. I'm sure if you are a regular
    tubular user who descends with braking, your rims have aluminum grey
    in the glue and the rims have cloth wear marks from the base tapes.
    Tubulars move on the rim unless you have bare cloth base tapes and use
    track glue. That's what it's there for.

    Quoted message said:

    I stopped using sew-ups whenever there is no support vehicle(s). It is
    too much of a pain in the ass to carry a spare sew-up tire. With
    clinchers I carry 2 spare ultra-light (and compact) tubes and a small
    patch kit. Lastly, it is worth noting that clincher rims are much
    easier to damage when riding on a flat.

    Quoted message said:

    Back in the day (20 + years ago?) I recall an occasional race won by a
    guy crossing the line on a flat or near flat tire. Not only are
    clincher rims more likely to become damaged this way, they are also
    more likely to come off the rim in my experience.

    Not to worry. I have ridden many miles on a flat 25mm clincher because
    the rim was so deeply dented and would not take another tire. It is
    only imagination that flat clinchers cannot be ridden.

    Quoted message said:

    I have never had a sew-up come off the rim due to a flat but I have
    had clincher tires come off more than a few times due to flats. WRT
    equipment choices, one last consideration is that sew-ups are
    getting very expensive I am sure due to the smaller volumes produced
    these days and cheap sew-ups are more difficult to repair and some
    times not worth the effort.

    What sort of rags did you use for clinchers? I've used wire bead
    avocets for years and the ones that I rode flat did not come off the
    rim.

    Jobst Brandt

  7. Chalo said:

    serious cyclists own more than
    one *bike*. I have seventeen bikes
    at last count, but AFAIK no single rear
    wheel will directly swap among
    any two of them.

    Dang, that's unfortunate.

    JT

    ****************************
    Remove "remove" to reply
    Visit http://www.jt10000.com
    ****************************

  8. Quoted message said:

    What sort of rags did you use for clinchers? I've used wire bead
    avocets for years and the ones that I rode flat did not come off the
    rim.

    The rims might also make a difference: if the central bit is deeper, it'll
    be easier for the bead to run off (and easier to mount the tyre).

    Jasper

  9. Qui si parla Campagnolo said:
    Jasper Janssen said:

    On 2 Oct 2005 14:08:42 -0700, "Qui si parla Campagnolo"
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Ya dude, don't let a sense of humor get in your way.....

    It's not humour if your 'jokes' are indistinguishable from the rest of
    your diatribes.

    Quoted message said:

    Sounds personal-dude

    I can assure you that it's not in any way whatsoever personal. I mean,
    there are people on this group with which it's getting to that point, but
    you, no.

    Jasper

  10. Tom Ace said:

    Peter Chisholm wrote (October 1)

    Quoted message said:

    Pump it up to pressure and let set for 24hrs.

    Peter Chisholm wrote (October 2)

    Quoted message said:

    Not time consuming

    Tom Ace

    Sorry, Tom, I guess you assume I then carry them around for those
    24hrs, checking the pressure, the centering, etc, comstantly. Not
    really. The actual act of gluing takes about the same amount of time as
    changing a chain and checking the der adjust.

    If ya don't like them, don't use them but like Chalo, don't dismiss
    them as not a viable alternative for tires on the modern bicycle. Ya
    know I don't like carbon blend frames(ti and carbon) or intergrated HS.
    Those have no advantages. Tubies to some, including a butt load of
    pros, have advantages.

  11. Tom Ace said:

    Peter Chisholm wrote (October 1)

    Quoted message said:

    Pump it up to pressure and let set for 24hrs.

    Peter Chisholm wrote (October 2)

    Quoted message said:

    Not time consuming

    According to:
    http://www.engr.ku.edu/~kuktl/bicycle/Part5.pdf

    of:
    http://www.engr.ku.edu/~kuktl/bicycle/bicycle.html

    Vittoria Mastik One reaches 80% of its 24 hour bond strength in one
    hour, and at that point has already surpassed the ultimate bond
    strength of most of the other glues.

    I don't know why anyone would use any other glue. It has great
    strength, heat resistance, and a strong bond only an hour after gluing.
    Maybe Conti in a pinch. All that Clement & 3M stuff is so yesterday,
    and it's ridiculous to see the same stuff argued over and over again
    here based on glue experience that is 20 years old.

  12. Quoted message said:


    Vittoria Mastik One reaches 80% of its 24 hour bond strength in one
    hour, and at that point has already surpassed the ultimate bond
    strength of most of the other glues.

    You should experiment with a good two-part epoxy.

    Chalo Colina

  13. Quoted message said:

    To make up for that, former clincher wheels were more durable than
    tubular rims although they weighed only 50g more. I didn't see a
    single rim that I would buy or recommend while at InterBike.
    All-carbon wheels may have surfaces where brake pads could run but
    they do not absorb heat as aluminum does so the brake pads will burn
    off as they did in the days of wooden rims.

    Jobst, what do you think of Sun Vista-Cruiser sewup rims (345g) ??

    http://www.sun-ringle.com/prods/roadrims.html

    It's only offered in 28H and 32H. Is there anyone making a light 36H
    tubular rim any more, I don't see them available anywhere (mavic
    reflex is 375 grams).

    - Don Gillies
    San Diego, CA

  14. Chalo said:
    Quoted message said:


    Vittoria Mastik One reaches 80% of its 24 hour bond strength in one
    hour, and at that point has already surpassed the ultimate bond
    strength of most of the other glues.

    You should experiment with a good two-part epoxy.

    _Good_ two-part epoxy doesn't set quickly enough. I think that epoxy
    was part of Jobst's Alpine tubular setup, though, wasn't it?

  15. Chris M said:

    In theory the only advantage now with sew-ups is that the rims can be
    (and normally are) designed without any extra material to keep the tire
    closed.

    It seems to me that the smaller volume of air for a given tire width in
    a tubular would be an advantage for providing equal or better shock
    absorption at lower pressures, which would allow for a more comfortable
    ride, better resistance to pinch flats, and possibly lower rolling
    resistance on imperfect pavement.

  16. Quoted message said:


    Chalo said:


    Quoted message said:


    Vittoria Mastik One reaches 80% of its 24 hour bond strength in one
    hour, and at that point has already surpassed the ultimate bond
    strength of most of the other glues.

    You should experiment with a good two-part epoxy.

    _Good_ two-part epoxy doesn't set quickly enough. I think that epoxy
    was part of Jobst's Alpine tubular setup, though, wasn't it?

    I was trying to make a joke. I suppose once you've become accustomed
    to the basic absurdity of gluing your tires on, then a jest about
    sticking them on with epoxy (or sealing wax, or solder, or boogers)
    would be lost on you.

    Chalo Colina

  17. Donald Gillies said:

    Jobst, what do you think of Sun Vista-Cruiser sewup rims (345g) ??

    http://www.sun-ringle.com/prods/roadrims.html

    You're asking Jobst what he thinks of a tubular, black (presumably
    anodized) rim with machined sidewalls and welded joints? We know the
    answer to that one.

    * TCB: TOTAL CONTROL BRAKING combines a welded rim seam with a
    * precision machined brake surface. No visible seam on the rim
    * gives you the ultimate in braking control.

    --
    Dave
    dvt at psu dot edu

  18. Quoted message said:


    Chris M said:


    In theory the only advantage now with sew-ups is that the rims can be
    (and normally are) designed without any extra material to keep the tire
    closed.

    It seems to me that the smaller volume of air for a given tire width in
    a tubular would be an advantage for providing equal or better shock
    absorption at lower pressures, which would allow for a more comfortable
    ride, better resistance to pinch flats, and possibly lower rolling
    resistance on imperfect pavement.

    Compression of the tire's casing at the contact patch does not reduce
    the tire's internal volume by any significant percentage, so the
    transient increase in pressure will be so slight as to have no
    noticeable effect with either tire construction.

    Tubies are more resistant to pinch-flatting because the edges of the
    rim that make contact when the tire bottoms out are rounded in
    comparison to the edges of a clincher rim.

    Rolling resistance in tubies is higher than comparable clinchers at any
    given pressure. If you are suggesting that it is an advantage for
    tubies that they can be run underinflated enough to bottom the rim
    without automatically resulting in flat tires, well I'd have to observe
    that's a pretty dumb thing to do to your rims (especially when you
    could just jump up a tire size if you used clinchers).

    Chalo Colina

  19. Donald Gillies said:
    Quoted message said:

    To make up for that, former clincher wheels were more durable than
    tubular rims although they weighed only 50g more. I didn't see a
    single rim that I would buy or recommend while at InterBike.
    All-carbon wheels may have surfaces where brake pads could run but
    they do not absorb heat as aluminum does so the brake pads will
    burn off as they did in the days of wooden rims.

    Quoted message said:

    Jobst, what do you think of Sun Vista-Cruiser sewup rims (345g) ??

    Quoted message said:

    http://www.sun-ringle.com/prods/roadrims.html

    Quoted message said:

    It's only offered in 28H and 32H. Is there anyone making a light
    36H tubular rim any more, I don't see them available anywhere (Mavic
    reflex is 375 grams).

    I don't see any spoke sockets and the cross section indicates there
    are none. Besides that, I see no reason to have such sharp radii and
    flat side walls. It looks odd to me. I don't know what the "black"
    is on the rim but shiny aluminum would be cheaper and cleaner. I see
    no reason for anodizing on rims and a good one for leaving it off.

    Jobst Brandt

  20. Chalo Colina said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    In theory the only advantage now with sew-ups is that the rims can
    be (and normally are) designed without any extra material to keep
    the tire closed.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    It seems to me that the smaller volume of air for a given tire
    width in a tubular would be an advantage for providing equal or
    better shock absorption at lower pressures, which would allow for a
    more comfortable ride, better resistance to pinch flats, and
    possibly lower rolling resistance on imperfect pavement.

    "It seems to me" doesn't convince me without some explanation of why
    you believe so. Just repeating myth and lore may help the faithful
    but that is where it ends.

    Quoted message said:

    Compression of the tire's casing at the contact patch does not reduce
    the tire's internal volume by any significant percentage, so the
    transient increase in pressure will be so slight as to have no
    noticeable effect with either tire construction.

    Quoted message said:

    Tubies are more resistant to pinch-flatting because the edges of the
    rim that make contact when the tire bottoms out are rounded in
    comparison to the edges of a clincher rim.

    Their resistance to snake bites is primarily due to the elasticity of
    latex rubber. It can take a far grater compression force because it
    can stretch many times more than butyl rubber in the pinch area
    without tearing. The edge of the rim never touches the tube, pinch
    flats occurring as the tube bears against the tire casing on both
    sides of the pinch.

    Quoted message said:

    Rolling resistance in tubies is higher than comparable clinchers at
    any given pressure. If you are suggesting that it is an advantage
    for tubies that they can be run underinflated enough to bottom the
    rim without automatically resulting in flat tires, well I'd have to
    observe that's a pretty dumb thing to do to your rims (especially
    when you could just jump up a tire size if you used clinchers).

    The rolling resistance is related to the tube, tread and casing
    thickness and in these, the tubular is often better than a clincher...
    but it loses all that by having tacky glue between it and the rim.
    That interface is a constant loss and is not even affected much by
    inflation pressure as is evident in the RR test curves at:

    http://www.terrymorse.com/bike/imgs/rolres.gif

    Jobst Brandt

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