Help with fitting simplex LJ front derailleur

Andrew Webster said:

I bought one because it was very cheap for a NOS
part(99p), but I can't work out how to fit it.

The actuating arm seems to be built for bottom pull,
that's the way the cable seems to fit, but the arm
needs to be pulled up from the top to move the
derailleur out against the spring. It doesn't seem
possible to fit the cable like this as the mounting
bracket would foul the cable.

See bikeville.comsimplexfront.htmlOpen ↗
for picures (mine is exactly like this except with hex
bolts on fastener and mine was a lot, lot cheaper).

Can someone with a long memory or an old bike help me out?

Andrew Webster

cablestop for outercable is on the lever, inner cable clamps
in the housing, trouser catches the protruding cable end
--
---
Marten Gerritsen

INFOapestaartjeM-GINEERINGpuntNL www.m-gineering.nl

Andrew Webster said:

I bought one because it was very cheap for a NOS
part(99p), but I can't work out how to fit it.
=20
The actuating arm seems to be built for bottom pull,
that's the way the cable seems to fit, but the arm
needs to be pulled up from the top to move the
derailleur out against the spring. It doesn't seem
possible to fit the cable like this as the mounting
bracket would foul the cable.

It's actually "bottom push!" It expects a short loop of
housing running =

from a stop near the bottom of the down tube. The inner
cable goes=20 through the moveable arm, straight up into the
body of the changer,=20 where it's secured by a grub screw
that presses against the side of it.

Quoted message said:

=20
See bikeville.comsimplexfront.htmlOpen ↗
for picures (mine is exactly like this except with hex
bolts on fastener and mine was a lot, lot cheaper).

The setscrew that holds the cage to the plunger acts as the
low gear=20 limit stop, set this first, because it affects
both high and low=20 adjustment.

The slot head screw that faces to the right is the high gear
limit stop.

If yours has a plastic clamp to hold it to the seat tube, be
VERY gentle =

tightening the 8 mm bolts that hold it on, these clamp parts
are easy to =

break, especially as the plastic will have become somewhat
embrittled=20 over the last 30 years or so.

If it's reluctant to upshift, it often helps to bend the
front of the=20 inner cage plate to the right a bit with an
adjustable spanner.

See also: sheldonbrown.comderailer adjustmentOpen ↗

Sheldon "Those Were Horrible Front Mechs" Brown +----------------------------------------------------------
+
| La derni=C0re chose qu'on trouve en faisant un ouvrage,
| | est de savoir celle qu'il faut mettre la premi=C0re. |
| (The last thing one knows in constructing a work is |
| what to put first.) --Pascal |
+----------------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-
9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.comOpen ↗ Hard-to-find
parts shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.comOpen ↗
sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.comOpen ↗

Sheldon Brown <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Andrew Webster said:

I bought one because it was very cheap for a NOS
part(99p), but I can't work out how to fit it.

Quoted message said:

It's actually "bottom push!" It expects a short loop of
housing running

All perfectly logical once it's explained, but I just
couldn't fathom
it (Ihad fixed on the idea that the arm held the inner via
a nipple).

Thanks to all for the help. I will give this a try, though I
am getting the message from a replies that, even for 99p,
this wan't really such a bargain after all.

Oh well, nothing ventured nothing gained.

Andrew Webster