Help! Repair advice needed

Sie said:

Hiya all,

While out on a route on Sat I started to hear a rattling noise coming from
my rear gear set which gradually got worse. I tried to turn around and head
for home but eventually it effected gear change so I had to stop and
investigate. As I removed the rear wheel the whole gear cassette fall apart.
I am a complete novice when it comes bike repair and had to sit there
working out what bit belonged where. On top of that the screws that held the
cogs together where a smaller allen key than anything I had with me. So
pointy stones where my only saviour there.

Anyways to cut a long story short. Putting the cassette together I was
confused by a cir clip type ring and where it was supposed to live. The
cassette has 8 cogs and between every cog except 7 and 8th I have a plastic
spacer ring. The 8th gear it's self has it's own spacer attached to it. Now
does the cir clip spacer ring thing belong between the 7th and 8th gear or
between the 8th gear and the locking ring?

At the moment I have it between the 7th and 8th as it just seemed the right
thing to do at the time But gear shift between those gears is not brilliant
i.e it shifts up ok but needs 2 downshifts to get it down if you know what I
mean.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I want to go out on it today 🙂

Shimano cassettes don't have a circlip, but the lockring does have a
kind of flimsy washer attached to it. If this has come loose, put it
between the lockring and the 8th sprocket.

If it's not Shimano then I don't know.

Incidentally, the bolts holding the cassette together are optional and
can be left out.

"Sie" <siejones@freeuk_nocrap_.com> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Anyways to cut a long story short. Putting the cassette together I was
confused by a cir clip type ring and where it was supposed to live. The
cassette has 8 cogs and between every cog except 7 and 8th I have a
plastic
spacer ring. The 8th gear it's self has it's own spacer attached to it.
Now
does the cir clip spacer ring thing belong between the 7th and 8th gear or
between the 8th gear and the locking ring?

Sounds as though you've done the right thing, assuming that the bit to which
you refer is a "notched" washer, and maybe 1 or 2mm thick. If it's thinner
than this, and smooth edged, it belongs between the top sprocket and the
lockring.

The A/K fixing bolts aren't important - you can remove them altogether if
you wish. However, the cassette lock ring *does* need to be tight, as you've
found out!

Quoted message said:

At the moment I have it between the 7th and 8th as it just seemed the
right
thing to do at the time But gear shift between those gears is not
brilliant
i.e it shifts up ok but needs 2 downshifts to get it down if you know what
I
mean.

I'd get someone else to check what you've done. It may simply be a question
of tweaking the cable tension (using the barrel adjuster on the rear mech),
or adjusting the throw on the changer, but it's also possible that something
else is loose / bent / etc. (Or, if your washer *was* the smooth, thin one,
then this would cause your problem.) For your cassette to have done what it
did, both the lockring and the cassette fastening bolts will have had to
have come loose; this suggests to me that things may have been going amiss
more generally! It is important to keep an eye and ears open for tell-tale
signs - rattles, things that don't look right, etc.

Thanks 2 both who replyed.

The washer was a notched washer and on retrying to fix it yesterday I
noticed it just couldn't sit anywhere but between 7th and 8th.

On closer inspection of the back wheel I noticed that when the 3 pins came
loose on the road they were knocking against the spokes. One of the spoke
has been broken because of this. The wheel has also adopted a nice buckle.

Even after careful adjustment of both the high and low gear screw
adjustment I can' seem to stop the 3rd gear being a little reluctant to
change down to and the 8th only changing down if I select 6th. This may be
related to the wheel problems I don't know.

I think my only course of action is to get it checked over by the bike shop.
I don't think the wheel is of the cheap variaty and I need to know wether
it's better to fix it or to get a new one.

Ta

Sie

"Simon D" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Sie" <siejones@freeuk_nocrap_.com> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Anyways to cut a long story short. Putting the cassette together I was
confused by a cir clip type ring and where it was supposed to live. The
cassette has 8 cogs and between every cog except 7 and 8th I have a
plastic
spacer ring. The 8th gear it's self has it's own spacer attached to it.
Now
does the cir clip spacer ring thing belong between the 7th and 8th gear

or

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

between the 8th gear and the locking ring?

Sounds as though you've done the right thing, assuming that the bit to

which

Quoted message said:

you refer is a "notched" washer, and maybe 1 or 2mm thick. If it's thinner
than this, and smooth edged, it belongs between the top sprocket and the
lockring.

The A/K fixing bolts aren't important - you can remove them altogether if
you wish. However, the cassette lock ring *does* need to be tight, as

you've

Quoted message said:

found out!

Quoted message said:

At the moment I have it between the 7th and 8th as it just seemed the
right
thing to do at the time But gear shift between those gears is not
brilliant
i.e it shifts up ok but needs 2 downshifts to get it down if you know

what

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I
mean.

I'd get someone else to check what you've done. It may simply be a

question

Quoted message said:

of tweaking the cable tension (using the barrel adjuster on the rear

mech),

Quoted message said:

or adjusting the throw on the changer, but it's also possible that

something

Quoted message said:

else is loose / bent / etc. (Or, if your washer *was* the smooth, thin

one,

Quoted message said:

then this would cause your problem.) For your cassette to have done what

it

Quoted message said:

did, both the lockring and the cassette fastening bolts will have had to
have come loose; this suggests to me that things may have been going amiss
more generally! It is important to keep an eye and ears open for tell-tale
signs - rattles, things that don't look right, etc.

On Mon, 01 Nov 2004 07:13:54 GMT, "Sie" <siejones@freeuk_nocrap_.com>

Quoted message said:

On closer inspection of the back wheel I noticed that when the 3 pins came
loose on the road they were knocking against the spokes. One of the spoke
has been broken because of this. The wheel has also adopted a nice buckle.

This is to be expected, it's because of the broken spoke. The trueness
of the wheel is dependant on even tension across all of the spokes,
when one breaks it throws the wheel out. It's easily fixed, a
replacement spoke is installed and the wheel re-trued, there should be
no need for a new wheel.

Quoted message said:

Even after careful adjustment of both the high and low gear screw
adjustment I can' seem to stop the 3rd gear being a little reluctant to
change down to and the 8th only changing down if I select 6th. This may be
related to the wheel problems I don't know.

This could be just because the indexing needs adjustment. If things
are not quite right you would expect some gears to be happy and others
to be more troublesome.

If you want to have a go at fixing it yourself Sheldon has
instructions here:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

--

"Bob"

'The revolution is just a T shirt away'

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