headset adjustment problem

Gary Smiley said:

Recently I had to replace a threaded fork, which I did with the help
of a bike mechanic. But I can't quite seem to get it perfect. If I
tighten the headset too loosely, the fork wobbles. If i just tighten
the headset enough to eliminate the wobble, then the headset will be
a bit too tight and the fork won't rotate as freely as I would like-
for example I can't ride "no hands". It's either one or the other,
no matter what I do. My mechanic had me replace the bearings
container with just packed bearings in grease (with 2
removed). Could this be making the difference? Is there anything
else I should do?

Are the bearing balls in a cage? If not, it sounds like classic "one
ball or more up on the ledge" aka out of the race and up on the rim.
Put in a 20 ball cage toss the thing together (which is easy with
caged balls) and adjust.

To test for clearance, bounce the front wheel on the ground and listen
for bearing chatter. When bearing chatter is gone, put the bicycle on
your shoulder with the front wheel hanging almost on its neutral axis
(does not want to flop to the side OR straight ahead, and tilt the
frame from side to side. The steering should coast to a stop rather
than with a slow shuddering indexed stop.

After you've done all that and got it right, you'll understand why I
believe threadless steer tubes are far better fork mounts.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/threadless-headset.html

Jobst Brandt

Gary Smiley said:

Recently I had to replace a threaded fork, which I did with the help of a
bike mechanic. But I can't quite seem to get it perfect. If I tighten the
headset too loosely, the fork wobbles. If i just tighten the headset enough
to eliminate the wobble, then the headset will be a bit too tight and the
fork won't rotate as freely as I would like- for example I can't ride "no
hands". It's either one or the other, no matter what I do.

Sounds like the crown race is not properly seated (I assume that you used
the old headset. If not, it could be any of the pressed races). It could
be that the fork needs to be prepped, as well, so that the race can seat
properly.

Quoted message said:

My mechanic had
me replace the bearings container with just packed bearings in grease
(with 2 removed).

2 removed? You mean, fewer bearings than were in the retainer? I would
fit in as many bearings as you can without binding. But removing the
retainer per se is not a problem.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | And though I have the gift of prophecy, and understand all
_`\(,_ | mysteries, and all knowledge; and though I have all faith, so
(_)/ (_) | that I could remove mountains, and have not charity, I am
nothing. [1 Corinth. 13:2]

yes-get those bearings in there. this is a no spin application at a
slow speed-the bearings can sort themselves out without hi speed impact

try searching to "DIY Headset in tech archives.

i do not know how to adjust a headset-i have ritchey logics on a
threaded stem
not according to the instructions i read.
my best results come from tightnesses that exceed the instructions.
the forks turning feel is STIFF!!
but there's no wheel on the fork.
i blue eom loctite everything with a clean surface.

if your race is worn elliptically-and a wear groove into the cone
surface is probabbbly elliptical-what else would you expect?
then turning into the tight tolerance from an adjustment on the larger
tolerance forces the mechanism apart.

the other deal is you have a retainer in upside down or maybe the wrong
size bearings.

if its an old bike give up on it and install a chris king,

Gary Smiley said:

Recently I had to replace a threaded fork, which I did with the help of a
bike mechanic. But I can't quite seem to get it perfect. If I tighten the
headset too loosely, the fork wobbles. If i just tighten the headset enough
to eliminate the wobble, then the headset will be a bit too tight and the
fork won't rotate as freely as I would like- for example I can't ride "no
hands". It's either one or the other, no matter what I do. My mechanic had
me replace the bearings container with just packed bearings in grease (with
2 removed). Could this be making the difference? Is there anything else I
should do?

Get the headtube faces checked out. These are exactly the symptoms of
non-parallel faces, and it's quick to rectify in a decent shop.