Getting ready for my new project.



J

Joel

Guest
I am planning on purchasing the Trice flag mount for my trike. It will
require that I drill out here 6.2mm hole to a 6.5mm hole to accept the
1/4" flag shaft. I don't have a drill press or a vise, so I will have to
improvise. I will take the mount and screw it to a 2x4 then using my
electric drill and a slightly larger bit than the existing hole and
plenty of WD40 I will drill out the hole, then use a 1/4" bit and drill
again. Do you think it will work? here is a link to the mount.
http://tinyurl.com/ypx8hl

Joel
 
"Joel" <joelw135atcomcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am planning on purchasing the Trice flag mount for my trike. It will
>require that I drill out here 6.2mm hole to a 6.5mm hole to accept the 1/4"
>flag shaft. I don't have a drill press or a vise, so I will have to
>improvise. I will take the mount and screw it to a 2x4 then using my
>electric drill and a slightly larger bit than the existing hole and plenty
>of WD40 I will drill out the hole, then use a 1/4" bit and drill again. Do
>you think it will work? here is a link to the mount.
> http://tinyurl.com/ypx8hl
>
> Joel

I'm guessing you want to enlarge the hole so that you won't have to rework
every flag pole you might want to use, instead of taking some sandpaper to
the pole, but could you buy some tube that would slip over the Trice's
giving you automatic clearence? I also think the tool you want to use to
remove .012" would be a reamer with a pilot bushing, not a drill bit. Also I
recommend using oil, not WD-40 which is too thin for cutting fluid.

If you're going to use drill, I think you're going to need an E, then an F.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
 
Joel asked:

> Do you think [drilling out a Trice flag mount]
> will work?

Yes. If you drill [bore] from the top, and stop about
1/4" before you go all the way through, the safety pole
can be pressed into the mount by hand so that you may
be happy with its retention, but it's still fairly easy
to remove it for trike transport. If you bore all the
way through you can tape the pole just above the mount
to keep it from sliding all the way to the ground. If
you don't remove the pole very often you can let it
extend about 3/4" below the mount and wrap a few more
turns of tape there to make it much harder to pull off,
e.g., by low hanging branches.

Regards,
Wayne
 
Joel wrote:
> I am planning on purchasing the Trice flag mount for my trike. It will
> require that I drill out here 6.2mm hole to a 6.5mm hole to accept the
> 1/4" flag shaft. I don't have a drill press or a vise, so I will have to
> improvise. I will take the mount and screw it to a 2x4 then using my
> electric drill and a slightly larger bit than the existing hole and
> plenty of WD40 I will drill out the hole, then use a 1/4" bit and drill
> again. Do you think it will work? here is a link to the mount.
> http://tinyurl.com/ypx8hl
>
> Joel
I use electrical/hydraulic (MS21919) clamps to hold my flag. They work
very well.

--
J Kimmel
[email protected]
www.metalinnovations.com

"Cuius testiculos habes, habeas cardia et cerebellum." - When you have
their full attention in your grip, their hearts and minds will follow.
 
32GO wrote:
> Joel asked:
>
>> Do you think [drilling out a Trice flag mount]
>> will work?
>
> Yes. If you drill [bore] from the top, and stop about
> 1/4" before you go all the way through, the safety pole
> can be pressed into the mount by hand so that you may
> be happy with its retention, but it's still fairly easy
> to remove it for trike transport. If you bore all the
> way through you can tape the pole just above the mount
> to keep it from sliding all the way to the ground. If
> you don't remove the pole very often you can let it
> extend about 3/4" below the mount and wrap a few more
> turns of tape there to make it much harder to pull off,
> e.g., by low hanging branches.
>
> Regards,
> Wayne
>
I will drill just short of the bottom so I don't need the tape. I have a
Cobalt 1/4" drill bit that I will use with WD40 as lubrication. I guess
I will get it in about 10 days to 2 weeks. I can't stand those stamped
metal brackets that come with most flags, and the way a recumbent is
built, they are unusable. I made a out of scale mock up of the mount on
the trike.
http://tinyurl.com/yssyug
 
With weight concerns in mind, in the photo it seems easiest to hacksaw
off that metal adjuster strap in order to miss the upper rack hex
bolt, then slip it on the removed axle, put the wheel back, tighten.

As far as the flag rod width, I would try a cordless 3/8" drill and
sandpaper- open the drill jaw wide,then the sandpaper, then the rod.
Clamp the rod into the drill jaw firmly- but not tightly and hang onto
the rod with gloves, then "pulse" (on off, on off, on off) the drill.
Then curse when that doesn't work.

Plan B..... go have a beer.




Joel wrote:
> I am planning on purchasing the Trice flag mount for my trike. It will
> require that I drill out here 6.2mm hole to a 6.5mm hole to accept the
> 1/4" flag shaft. I don't have a drill press or a vise, so I will have to
> improvise. I will take the mount and screw it to a 2x4 then using my
> electric drill and a slightly larger bit than the existing hole and
> plenty of WD40 I will drill out the hole, then use a 1/4" bit and drill
> again. Do you think it will work? here is a link to the mount.
> http://tinyurl.com/ypx8hl
>
> Joel
 
[email protected] wrote:
> With weight concerns in mind, in the photo it seems easiest to hacksaw
> off that metal adjuster strap in order to miss the upper rack hex
> bolt, then slip it on the removed axle, put the wheel back, tighten.
>
> As far as the flag rod width, I would try a cordless 3/8" drill and
> sandpaper- open the drill jaw wide,then the sandpaper, then the rod.
> Clamp the rod into the drill jaw firmly- but not tightly and hang onto
> the rod with gloves, then "pulse" (on off, on off, on off) the drill.
> Then curse when that doesn't work.
>
> Plan B..... go have a beer.
>
>
>
>
> Joel wrote:
>> I am planning on purchasing the Trice flag mount for my trike. It will
>> require that I drill out here 6.2mm hole to a 6.5mm hole to accept the
>> 1/4" flag shaft. I don't have a drill press or a vise, so I will have to
>> improvise. I will take the mount and screw it to a 2x4 then using my
>> electric drill and a slightly larger bit than the existing hole and
>> plenty of WD40 I will drill out the hole, then use a 1/4" bit and drill
>> again. Do you think it will work? here is a link to the mount.
>> http://tinyurl.com/ypx8hl
>>
>> Joel
>
I think I have lost you! What metal adjuster strap? Also did you say put
the sandpaper in the drill around the rod then hold the rod so the
sandpaper rubs the rod?
 
"Joel" <joelw135atcomcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] wrote:
>> With weight concerns in mind, in the photo it seems easiest to hacksaw
>> off that metal adjuster strap in order to miss the upper rack hex
>> bolt, then slip it on the removed axle, put the wheel back, tighten.
>>
>> As far as the flag rod width, I would try a cordless 3/8" drill and
>> sandpaper- open the drill jaw wide,then the sandpaper, then the rod.
>> Clamp the rod into the drill jaw firmly- but not tightly and hang onto
>> the rod with gloves, then "pulse" (on off, on off, on off) the drill.
>> Then curse when that doesn't work.
>>
>> Plan B..... go have a beer.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joel wrote:
>>> I am planning on purchasing the Trice flag mount for my trike. It will
>>> require that I drill out here 6.2mm hole to a 6.5mm hole to accept the
>>> 1/4" flag shaft. I don't have a drill press or a vise, so I will have to
>>> improvise. I will take the mount and screw it to a 2x4 then using my
>>> electric drill and a slightly larger bit than the existing hole and
>>> plenty of WD40

Don't use a lightweight fluid like WD-40. Use regular oil, even 3-in-1 would
be better, or motor oil. FWIW the next two drill sizes you want are E and F,
but the best thing to use would be a reamer with a guide bearing. Another
way to enlarge the hole would be to take an undersized dowel, slit it and
put a strip of emery cloth through the slit and keep working it up and down
the tube with the drill. Do this dry and check the fit periodically.

How about this idea; get a piece of metal tubing at the hobby or hardware
store that is big enough to slip over the tube of the flag pole holder. Use
some epoxy to glue it over the tube. Walla, a resized tube without all the
futzing around. Just wrap a bit of tape on your flag pole if the slip-over
tube is too roomy.

>>> I will drill out the hole, then use a 1/4" bit and drill
>>> again. Do you think it will work? here is a link to the mount.
>>> http://tinyurl.com/ypx8hl
>>>
>>> Joel
>>
> I think I have lost you! What metal adjuster strap? Also did you say put
> the sandpaper in the drill around the rod then hold the rod so the
> sandpaper rubs the rod?



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
 
Joel wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>> With weight concerns in mind, in the photo it seems easiest to hacksaw
>> off that metal adjuster strap in order to miss the upper rack hex
>> bolt, then slip it on the removed axle, put the wheel back, tighten.
>>
>> As far as the flag rod width, I would try a cordless 3/8" drill and
>> sandpaper- open the drill jaw wide,then the sandpaper, then the rod.
>> Clamp the rod into the drill jaw firmly- but not tightly and hang onto
>> the rod with gloves, then "pulse" (on off, on off, on off) the drill.
>> Then curse when that doesn't work.
>>
>> Plan B..... go have a beer.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joel wrote:
>>> I am planning on purchasing the Trice flag mount for my trike. It will
>>> require that I drill out here 6.2mm hole to a 6.5mm hole to accept the
>>> 1/4" flag shaft. I don't have a drill press or a vise, so I will have to
>>> improvise. I will take the mount and screw it to a 2x4 then using my
>>> electric drill and a slightly larger bit than the existing hole and
>>> plenty of WD40 I will drill out the hole, then use a 1/4" bit and drill
>>> again. Do you think it will work? here is a link to the mount.
>>> http://tinyurl.com/ypx8hl
>>>
>>> Joel
>>
> I think I have lost you! What metal adjuster strap? Also did you say put
> the sandpaper in the drill around the rod then hold the rod so the
> sandpaper rubs the rod?

OK I see you are talking about cutting off the arc cutout where the
mounting screw is in now. On my trike I don't think that can be done as
the dropouts are recessed farther back. but I won't rule that out until
I see it for sure. Still not sure what you meant with the drill and
sandpaper.

Joel
 
Joel wrote:
> Joel wrote:
> > [email protected] wrote:

> >> Plan B..... go have a beer.
> >> On my trike I don't think that can be done as
> the dropouts are recessed farther back. but I won't rule that out until
> I see it for sure. Still not sure what you meant with the drill and
> sandpaper.
>
> Joel

Sounds like time for plan B ;-) The rod width could be thinned
spending a lot of time wrapping sandpaper around the rod- using a
drill would be time saving and would replace the "back and forth
motion with one controlled movement. Sorry to come up with a lame-
brained idea and confuse you!
 
[email protected] wrote:
> Joel wrote:
>> Joel wrote:
>>> [email protected] wrote:
>
>>>> Plan B..... go have a beer.
>>>> On my trike I don't think that can be done as
>> the dropouts are recessed farther back. but I won't rule that out until
>> I see it for sure. Still not sure what you meant with the drill and
>> sandpaper.
>>
>> Joel
>
> Sounds like time for plan B ;-) The rod width could be thinned
> spending a lot of time wrapping sandpaper around the rod- using a
> drill would be time saving and would replace the "back and forth
> motion with one controlled movement. Sorry to come up with a lame-
> brained idea and confuse you!
>
Not a lamebrain idea, but it would only do about 1 1/2" of the rod, I
have to do 3" to fit completely in the holder.
 
gotbent wrote:
> "Joel" <joelw135atcomcast.net> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> [email protected] wrote:
>>> With weight concerns in mind, in the photo it seems easiest to hacksaw
>>> off that metal adjuster strap in order to miss the upper rack hex
>>> bolt, then slip it on the removed axle, put the wheel back, tighten.
>>>
>>> As far as the flag rod width, I would try a cordless 3/8" drill and
>>> sandpaper- open the drill jaw wide,then the sandpaper, then the rod.
>>> Clamp the rod into the drill jaw firmly- but not tightly and hang onto
>>> the rod with gloves, then "pulse" (on off, on off, on off) the drill.
>>> Then curse when that doesn't work.
>>>
>>> Plan B..... go have a beer.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Joel wrote:
>>>> I am planning on purchasing the Trice flag mount for my trike. It will
>>>> require that I drill out here 6.2mm hole to a 6.5mm hole to accept the
>>>> 1/4" flag shaft. I don't have a drill press or a vise, so I will have to
>>>> improvise. I will take the mount and screw it to a 2x4 then using my
>>>> electric drill and a slightly larger bit than the existing hole and
>>>> plenty of WD40
>
> Don't use a lightweight fluid like WD-40. Use regular oil, even 3-in-1 would
> be better, or motor oil. FWIW the next two drill sizes you want are E and F,
> but the best thing to use would be a reamer with a guide bearing. Another
> way to enlarge the hole would be to take an undersized dowel, slit it and
> put a strip of emery cloth through the slit and keep working it up and down
> the tube with the drill. Do this dry and check the fit periodically.
>
> How about this idea; get a piece of metal tubing at the hobby or hardware
> store that is big enough to slip over the tube of the flag pole holder. Use
> some epoxy to glue it over the tube. Walla, a resized tube without all the
> futzing around. Just wrap a bit of tape on your flag pole if the slip-over
> tube is too roomy.
>
>>>> I will drill out the hole, then use a 1/4" bit and drill
>>>> again. Do you think it will work? here is a link to the mount.
>>>> http://tinyurl.com/ypx8hl
>>>>
>>>> Joel
>> I think I have lost you! What metal adjuster strap? Also did you say put
>> the sandpaper in the drill around the rod then hold the rod so the
>> sandpaper rubs the rod?
>
>
>
I have a few nominal size US bits and a 1/4" Cobalt bit that cuts
stainless like butter, and that alone should do it with ease.
 
gotbent wrote:
> "Joel" <joelw135atcomcast.net> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I am planning on purchasing the Trice flag mount for my trike. It will
>> require that I drill out here 6.2mm hole to a 6.5mm hole to accept the 1/4"
>> flag shaft. I don't have a drill press or a vise, so I will have to
>> improvise. I will take the mount and screw it to a 2x4 then using my
>> electric drill and a slightly larger bit than the existing hole and plenty
>> of WD40 I will drill out the hole, then use a 1/4" bit and drill again. Do
>> you think it will work? here is a link to the mount.
>> http://tinyurl.com/ypx8hl
>>
>> Joel
>
> I'm guessing you want to enlarge the hole so that you won't have to rework
> every flag pole you might want to use, instead of taking some sandpaper to
> the pole, but could you buy some tube that would slip over the Trice's
> giving you automatic clearence? I also think the tool you want to use to
> remove .012" would be a reamer with a pilot bushing, not a drill bit. Also I
> recommend using oil, not WD-40 which is too thin for cutting fluid.
>
> If you're going to use drill, I think you're going to need an E, then an F.
>
>
>
OK I have 3 & 1 oil, I will use that. The machine shop thinks that since
it is only 1mm the 1/4" bit should do it easy.
 
Joel wrote:
> I am planning on purchasing the Trice flag mount for my trike. It will
> require that I drill out here 6.2mm hole to a 6.5mm hole to accept the
> 1/4" flag shaft. I don't have a drill press or a vise, so I will have to
> improvise. I will take the mount and screw it to a 2x4 then using my
> electric drill and a slightly larger bit than the existing hole and
> plenty of WD40 I will drill out the hole, then use a 1/4" bit and drill
> again. Do you think it will work? here is a link to the mount.
> http://tinyurl.com/ypx8hl
>
> Joel

I would take it to a machine shop and have them do it.
Boring out tubes with hand tools is a *****.

You will not be able to hold the drill alighted and will make a mess of
inside the hole. There is not much metal to be removed (which is good)
but you need a drill press to do this well.
~
 
DougC wrote:
> Joel wrote:
>> I am planning on purchasing the Trice flag mount for my trike. It will
>> require that I drill out here 6.2mm hole to a 6.5mm hole to accept the
>> 1/4" flag shaft. I don't have a drill press or a vise, so I will have
>> to improvise. I will take the mount and screw it to a 2x4 then using
>> my electric drill and a slightly larger bit than the existing hole and
>> plenty of WD40 I will drill out the hole, then use a 1/4" bit and
>> drill again. Do you think it will work? here is a link to the mount.
>> http://tinyurl.com/ypx8hl
>>
>> Joel
>
> I would take it to a machine shop and have them do it.
> Boring out tubes with hand tools is a *****.
>
> You will not be able to hold the drill alighted and will make a mess of
> inside the hole. There is not much metal to be removed (which is good)
> but you need a drill press to do this well.
> ~

I might have to do this myself as most of the machine shops I contacted
have a minimum rate, which makes it cost ineffective. The bit will be
self centering as there is already a hole, so if I mount the bracket on
a 2X4 and clamp it down and then take it slow. I should be OK.
 
On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 15:17:45 -0500, Joel <joelw135atcomcast.net>
wrote:

>I might have to do this myself as most of the machine shops I contacted
>have a minimum rate, which makes it cost ineffective. The bit will be
>self centering as there is already a hole, so if I mount the bracket on
>a 2X4 and clamp it down and then take it slow. I should be OK.

You can always check with a college or high school. The University of
Maryland evidently has a shop with a lot of equipment available - I've
had two different students do work, one a bike, one a custome piece of
furniture.

And one high school, after the shop guy said they had the tools and a
really good kid at what I needed to have done. Something added to a
4x8 trailer for the bike racks.

Total cost? All of it was actually free, other than materials. The
frame builder at Proteus thought the bike work was pretty well done
(only part of it I remember was a precision drilling through a curved
fork crown on a track bike, and some other stuff that is no longer in
the memory bank - think it was something to do with the rear cutouts).

Curtis L. Russell
Odenton, MD (USA)
Just someone on two wheels...
 
Curtis L. Russell wrote:
> On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 15:17:45 -0500, Joel <joelw135atcomcast.net>
> wrote:
>
>> I might have to do this myself as most of the machine shops I contacted
>> have a minimum rate, which makes it cost ineffective. The bit will be
>> self centering as there is already a hole, so if I mount the bracket on
>> a 2X4 and clamp it down and then take it slow. I should be OK.
>
> You can always check with a college or high school. The University of
> Maryland evidently has a shop with a lot of equipment available - I've
> had two different students do work, one a bike, one a custome piece of
> furniture.
>
> And one high school, after the shop guy said they had the tools and a
> really good kid at what I needed to have done. Something added to a
> 4x8 trailer for the bike racks.
>
> Total cost? All of it was actually free, other than materials. The
> frame builder at Proteus thought the bike work was pretty well done
> (only part of it I remember was a precision drilling through a curved
> fork crown on a track bike, and some other stuff that is no longer in
> the memory bank - think it was something to do with the rear cutouts).
>
> Curtis L. Russell
> Odenton, MD (USA)
> Just someone on two wheels...

I will check the local vocational school, but up to 9011 it was easy
getting into the shop to talk to the instructor, but now you can't get
passed the front gate.
 
On Feb 12, 11:32 am, [email protected] wrote:
> ...
> Plan B..... go have a beer.

Unfiltered beer with the yeast in it not only tastes better but is
also more nutritious, e.g. <http://www.newglarusbrewing.com/beers/
spottedcow.html> [1].

[1] Only available behind the Cheddar Curtain, heh heh heh.

--
Tom Sherman - Clueless Newbie
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
 
Joel wrote:
> Curtis L. Russell wrote:
>> On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 15:17:45 -0500, Joel <joelw135atcomcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I might have to do this myself as most of the machine shops I
>>> contacted have a minimum rate, which makes it cost ineffective. The
>>> bit will be self centering as there is already a hole, so if I mount
>>> the bracket on a 2X4 and clamp it down and then take it slow. I
>>> should be OK.
>>
>> You can always check with a college or high school. The University of
>> Maryland evidently has a shop with a lot of equipment available - I've
>> had two different students do work, one a bike, one a custome piece of
>> furniture.
>>
>> And one high school, after the shop guy said they had the tools and a
>> really good kid at what I needed to have done. Something added to a
>> 4x8 trailer for the bike racks.
>>
>> Total cost? All of it was actually free, other than materials. The
>> frame builder at Proteus thought the bike work was pretty well done
>> (only part of it I remember was a precision drilling through a curved
>> fork crown on a track bike, and some other stuff that is no longer in
>> the memory bank - think it was something to do with the rear cutouts).
>>
>> Curtis L. Russell
>> Odenton, MD (USA)
>> Just someone on two wheels...
>
> I will check the local vocational school, but up to 9011 it was easy
> getting into the shop to talk to the instructor, but now you can't get
> passed the front gate.

As of today the mount has not shipped from ICE, but the new whip showed
up yesterday, and it is constructed real nice. The coupling in the
center is made of metal and the whip itself is a bright yellow/green
that is fluorescent. I will send an email to ICE to find out what the
holdup is.
 
On Feb 21, 1:59 pm,"Edward Dolan wrote:
> He will have to post messages of substance or I will skewer him....

Always use internal cam (e.g. Campagnolo [1], Shimano) quick-release
(QR) skewers instead of the external cam QR skewers, as the internal
types offer much greater clamping force, are less affected by dirt,
and can not accidentally come open the way a external cam QR could if
it is closed with the radiussed washer in the wrong position.

[1] Without the divine inspiration of the Prophet Tullio Campagnolo
and his cold numbed fingers, we would still be attaching our bicycle
wheels with WING NUTS!

--
Tom Sherman - Clueless Newbie
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
 
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