g4drive said:
I just came off the trainer and was trying to figure out my average MPH ...
Chainring: 39T
Rear Cog: 14T
Inches/Revolution: 75
Average Cadence: 105 rpm
Distance covered in a minute = (75 * 105)/63,350 = 0.12429 miles
Average speed = (0.12429 * 60) = 7.46 mph
Your first mistake is ignoring the gear ratio in your calculation. Your calculation assumes a one-to-one ratio. This would be correct if your crank was directly on the wheel like in the old days of high-rollers (you can see how inefficient those were🙂). This is compounded in your second mistake which is using an average distance. This is irrelevant since you already know your average cadence.
Speed is a function of gearing, cadence and circumference of the tire:
speed in MPH=[# teeth chainring]/[# teeth sprocket]*[cadence in RPM]*[circumference of tire in meters]/26.8(<---unit conversion factor)
I'm using meters here because it makes the conversion factor a more reasonable number.
If your wheel circumference is correct (75inches=1.905meters) your average speed = 39/14*105*1.905/26.8=20.8MPH.
But beware - this does not necessarily translate to speed on the road because it may likely be easier to spin your wheel 20MPH on the trainer than it is on the road. To check, go out and see if you can hold that cadence for that gearing on a flat road.
Is your trainer listed here?:
geocities.comtrainerpowerOpen ↗
The Kurt Kinetic Road Machine (post-2004 models) supposedly has the most road-accurate resistance.
Anyway, if you're getting cadence you must have a computer. Why don't you use it on your rear wheel when on the trainer? If it's wireless and the signal is too weak to make it to the computer from the rear you can move the computer from your handlebars to your top tube or seatpost.