Front Derailleur without barrel adjusters

Very very carefully.

Is this a Shimano 11-speed setup?

As oldbobcat says, do it "Very, very carefully." FWIW. In the days before inline adjusters were commonly used on bike frames (yes, there was once such a time), I would hold the end of the cable with a pair of needlenose pliers & pull it taut ... and then, tighten the pinch bolt ....

Regardless, adding an inline adjuster at some point in the future is probably a good idea.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by alfeng

As oldbobcat says, do it "Very, very carefully."

FWIW. In the days before inline adjusters were commonly used on bike frames (yes, there was once such a time), I would hold the end of the cable with a pair of needlenose pliers & pull it taut ... and then, tighten the pinch bolt ....

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. . .
Regardless, adding an inline adjuster at some point in the future is probably a good idea.

Back then, precision adjusting wasn't needed because the shifters weren't indexed. A little slack was no big deal.

For 11-speed Shimano front derailleurs, my system follows. First, shift to the small ring, undo your cable fastening bolt and get all your alignment squared away. Next, over-tighten your low limit screw. How much depends on what kind of grip you can get on the cable end as you tighten the fastening bolt. Tighten the fastening bolt, not so tight that you delaminate or crush the cable. This is just a test fitting. Loosen the low limit screw so the chain barely rubs the plastic guide on the inner plate. If there is still a small bit of cable tension, this might be right. Tighten the fastening bolt a bit. Loosen the high limit screw a bit for safety and try a test shift. If it works, re-adjust the high limit and do more test shifts. If it doesn't, repeat until you get it right, using the over-tightening of the low limit screw as a guide. Actually, with concealed cables you want to start a little tight because the housings will settle into the ferrules even as you're working.

And resolve to install an adjuster next time you do this. It saves your cable.

oldbobcat said:

... with concealed cables you want to start a little tight because the housings will settle into the ferrules even as you're working.

... AND, I think that is another reason to consider using coiled brake cable housing whose ends have been properly deburred instead of the parallel stranded housing which will fail if the outer sheath ever fails (e.g., a potential problem due to UV degradation) OR if the ferrules ever fail (less likely, but it could certainly happen). THAT IS, beyond the few minutes needed to debur the housing's inner coil, it is simpler (IMO) installation & subsequent maintenance ... In MY book, that's a good thing!