Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

front derailleur cable rubs against bulky weld behind bottom bracket shell ...

Started by Mark Freedman · · Last activity · 4 posts · 1,013 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
14 September 2003
Last activity
15 September 2003
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Mark Freedman
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  1. Aluminium frame, TIG welds (very bulky). The plastic cable guide is present but does not extend far
    enough to stop the cable from rubbing against the weld at the back of the shell. There's no slot in
    the metal or other means of locating and stabilizing the cable - it slips sideways when shifting.

    I'm mostly concerned about the cable sawing into the metal, as well as the shifting
    considerations.

    I'm considering
    1) a short length of cable housing (how long would this last ?)
    2) durable plastic film, e.g. the kind used to protect chainstays
    3) glue (?) another nylon cable guide to the back of the bb shell
    4) glue some other material to protect the shell.
    5) suggestions ?

    I noticed this after I had the LBS eliminate the crossover under the teardrop downtube. The
    cables were crossed where the third water bottle would mount (that can't be right?) and rubbed
    the downtube (that can't be right ?). I looked at other Mikado touring bikes, non of them had
    crossed cables.

    I doubt it's related - I don't see how crossing the cables
    would change how the cable bends around the back of the bb shell.

    Thanks for your help.

  2. Perhaps the BB guide is mounted backwards?

    -Or-

    If not, perhaps the screw for the guide is too far forward. If so, unscrew, rotate the guide in the
    x-y plane towards the rear until the right clearance for the cables is obtained. Drill a pilot hole,
    tap for the screw, then fasten.

    "mark freedman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Aluminium frame, TIG welds (very bulky). The plastic cable guide is present but does not extend
    far enough to stop the cable from rubbing against the weld at the back of the shell. There's no
    slot in the metal or other means of locating and stabilizing the cable - it slips sideways when
    shifting.

    I'm mostly concerned about the cable sawing into the metal, as well as the shifting
    considerations.

    I'm considering
    1) a short length of cable housing (how long would this last ?)
    2) durable plastic film, e.g. the kind used to protect chainstays
    3) glue (?) another nylon cable guide to the back of the bb shell
    4) glue some other material to protect the shell.
    5) suggestions ?

    I noticed this after I had the LBS eliminate the crossover under the teardrop downtube. The
    cables were crossed where the third water bottle would mount (that can't be right?) and rubbed
    the downtube (that can't be right ?). I looked at other Mikado touring bikes, non of them had
    crossed cables.

    I doubt it's related - I don't see how crossing the cables
    would change how the cable bends around the back of the bb shell.

    Thanks for your help.

  3. "mark freedman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Aluminium frame, TIG welds (very bulky). The plastic cable guide is present but does not extend
    far enough to stop the cable from rubbing against the weld at the back of the shell. There's no
    slot in the metal or other means of locating and stabilizing the cable - it slips sideways when
    shifting.

    I'm mostly concerned about the cable sawing into the metal, as well as the shifting
    considerations.

    I'm considering
    1) a short length of cable housing (how long would this last ?)
    2) durable plastic film, e.g. the kind used to protect chainstays
    3) glue (?) another nylon cable guide to the back of the bb shell
    4) glue some other material to protect the shell.
    5) suggestions ?

    I noticed this after I had the LBS eliminate the crossover under the teardrop downtube. The
    cables were crossed where the third water bottle would mount (that can't be right?) and rubbed
    the downtube (that can't be right ?). I looked at other Mikado touring bikes, non of them had
    crossed cables.


    The crossover makes for a nicer run for the shifter housing. Less rubbing on the HT. Some bikes it
    works, some it doesn't, depends on where the bosses are mounted. My C-dale mtn bike was always run
    this way with no problems, but my road bikes are not.

    Quoted message said:

    I doubt it's related - I don't see how crossing the cables
    would change how the cable bends around the back of the bb shell.

    Thanks for your help.

  4. (mark freedman) said:

    Aluminium frame, TIG welds (very bulky). The plastic cable guide is present but does not extend far
    enough to stop the cable from rubbing against the weld at the back of the shell. There's no slot in
    the metal or other means of locating and stabilizing the cable - it slips sideways when shifting.

    I'm mostly concerned about the cable sawing into the metal, as well as the shifting
    considerations.

    I'm considering
    1) a short length of cable housing (how long would this last ?)

    Probably as long as the inner housing in the rest of your derailleur cables. Easily the
    best solution.

    Quoted message said:

    2) durable plastic film, e.g. the kind used to protect chainstays
    3) glue (?) another nylon cable guide to the back of the bb shell
    4) glue some other material to protect the shell.
    5) suggestions ?

    I noticed this after I had the LBS eliminate the crossover under the teardrop downtube. The
    cables were crossed where the third water bottle would mount (that can't be right?) and rubbed
    the downtube (that can't be right ?). I looked at other Mikado touring bikes, non of them had
    crossed cables.

    That's pretty much a "style thing". On most bikes, the crossed cables won't touch anything.

    Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles habcycles.comhabcycles.com Home of the $695 ti frame

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