Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Fitting the Bendix "kick-back" to 110mm dropout spacing:

Started by !Jones · · Last activity · 5 posts · 785 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
18 August 2007
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18 August 2007
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!Jones
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  1. The Bendix kick-back isn't for sissies. It's kind of the Harley
    Davidson of bicycling, IMO. It's big, noisy, heavy, and it's a power
    hog. It comes from a time when real *men* rode bicycles... and black
    spandex panties were strictly for [censored]. *MEN*, I tell you... oh,
    don't start...

    OK, if you have one and want to fit it to 110mm (standard BMX) dropout
    spacing, don't force it! A kick-back is, in original form, about a cm
    too big, so don't screw up your frame.

    Ref: http://www.bunchobikes.com/auto.htm

    First, the brake arm lock nut (part BB15) can be dropped in a zip lock
    and saved for later; you don't need it when the hub is on the bike.
    This will get you 2mm... 8mm to go!

    Now you gotta go into the machine shop and fire up the lathe. I chose
    to hit eBay and buy a new "Adjusting Cone Sun Gear"; they're out
    there; mine cost five bucks and shipping. (Heck, you probably spent
    30 bucks for a tiny little indexing spring!) Chuck up on the gear
    cogs and take a facing tool to the outbord end. There's a groove for
    the retainer ring that holds the dust cap on... cut right to the
    bottom of that; yes... cut away the groove! That'll give you right at
    8mm... maybe not quite, but real close.

    There will be about a 1mm void where the cone lock nut used to go; I
    cut a neoprene washer about .01" oversize to fit there. I suppose
    epoxy would also have worked. Now, you no longer have a cone lock.
    If you think about it, this part only locks the cone when it is *off*
    of the bicycle! Besides, this is why God, in His wisdom, gave us
    Locktight.

    BTW, you now have lots of axle hanging outside of the dropout. I
    trimmed mine back; however, the BMX crowd likes that. Strange lot,
    they are!

    Jones

  2. !Jones said:

    The Bendix kick-back isn't for sissies. It's kind of the Harley
    Davidson of bicycling, IMO. It's big, noisy, heavy, and it's a power
    hog. It comes from a time when real *men* rode bicycles... and black
    spandex panties were strictly for [censored]. *MEN*, I tell you... oh,
    don't start...

    My granny was no [censored], I'll have you know. I used to borrow her
    Bendix equipped bike all the time when I was a wee one. It's a great
    hub. Hers was on a very fancy bike that was sorta futuristic for its
    time--it had aluminum handlebars, but with wooden grips! Grant
    Peterson would tear up at the sight of it.

    Quoted message said:


    OK, if you have one and want to fit it to 110mm (standard BMX) dropout
    spacing, don't force it! A kick-back is, in original form, about a cm
    too big, so don't screw up your frame.

    Ref:http://www.bunchobikes.com/auto.htm

    First, the brake arm lock nut (part BB15) can be dropped in a zip lock
    and saved for later; you don't need it when the hub is on the bike.
    This will get you 2mm... 8mm to go!

    Now you gotta go into the machine shop and fire up the lathe. I chose
    to hit eBay and buy a new "Adjusting Cone Sun Gear"; they're out
    there; mine cost five bucks and shipping. (Heck, you probably spent
    30 bucks for a tiny little indexing spring!) Chuck up on the gear
    cogs and take a facing tool to the outbord end. There's a groove for
    the retainer ring that holds the dust cap on... cut right to the
    bottom of that; yes... cut away the groove! That'll give you right at
    8mm... maybe not quite, but real close.

    There will be about a 1mm void where the cone lock nut used to go; I
    cut a neoprene washer about .01" oversize to fit there. I suppose
    epoxy would also have worked. Now, you no longer have a cone lock.
    If you think about it, this part only locks the cone when it is *off*
    of the bicycle! Besides, this is why God, in His wisdom, gave us
    Locktight.

    BTW, you now have lots of axle hanging outside of the dropout. I
    trimmed mine back; however, the BMX crowd likes that. Strange lot,
    they are!

    Much too complicated for my tastes. I've have just taken a 2x4 to the
    frame and aligned the drops with a massive crescent wrench. I do
    admire your ingenuity. Pics?

  3. in rec.bicycles.tech landotter said:

    Much too complicated for my tastes. I've have just taken a 2x4 to the
    frame and aligned the drops with a massive crescent wrench. I do
    admire your ingenuity. Pics?

    She's a Littlejohn Tandem that I've just begun. I've never messed
    with a BMX, so this is gonna be a learning experience,

    How come the BBs aren't threaded?

    Never mind.

    Jones

  4. !Jones said:

    The Bendix kick-back isn't for sissies. It's kind of the Harley
    Davidson of bicycling, IMO. It's big, noisy, heavy, and it's a power
    hog. It comes from a time when real *men* rode bicycles... and black
    spandex panties were strictly for [censored]. *MEN*, I tell you... oh,
    don't start...

    OK, if you have one and want to fit it to 110mm (standard BMX) dropout
    spacing, don't force it! A kick-back is, in original form, about a cm
    too big, so don't screw up your frame.

    Ref: http://www.bunchobikes.com/auto.htm

    First, the brake arm lock nut (part BB15) can be dropped in a zip lock
    and saved for later; you don't need it when the hub is on the bike.
    This will get you 2mm... 8mm to go!

    Now you gotta go into the machine shop and fire up the lathe. I chose
    to hit eBay and buy a new "Adjusting Cone Sun Gear"; they're out
    there; mine cost five bucks and shipping. (Heck, you probably spent
    30 bucks for a tiny little indexing spring!) Chuck up on the gear
    cogs and take a facing tool to the outbord end. There's a groove for
    the retainer ring that holds the dust cap on... cut right to the
    bottom of that; yes... cut away the groove! That'll give you right at
    8mm... maybe not quite, but real close.

    There will be about a 1mm void where the cone lock nut used to go; I
    cut a neoprene washer about .01" oversize to fit there. I suppose
    epoxy would also have worked. Now, you no longer have a cone lock.
    If you think about it, this part only locks the cone when it is *off*
    of the bicycle! Besides, this is why God, in His wisdom, gave us
    Locktight.

    BTW, you now have lots of axle hanging outside of the dropout. I
    trimmed mine back; however, the BMX crowd likes that. Strange lot,
    they are!

    Or just change the frame spacing as most riders do. Takes a few minutes.
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  5. in rec.bicycles.tech A Muzi said:

    Or just change the frame spacing as most riders do. Takes a few minutes.

    Oh, come on, man! Why do something the easy way when there's a more
    complicated approach available?

    'Cides... I want to keep the frame as cherry as possible.

    Jones

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