Dover-Durness

I am back home now, having (sort of) completed Dover to Durness ride.
Thanks to all those who offered advice earlier on - all was considered.
I set off from Dover Castle in the rain, which fortunately stopped after
a short time. First thing I noticed - Kent is not flat! (for some reason I
had thought it would be, I think my mind tends to equate East with flat).
Gravesend - Tilbury ferry was operating ok (I understand it's a bit hit and
miss).
On from here through to the fens, where I had a brisk tail wind, so
combined with flat roads this section was a doddle. I had expected to be
bored riding through the fens, but in fact there was enough of interest,
mainly in the form of wildlife. One bit of interest I could have done
without was the site of a really nasty accident. The road had been closed,
but the police let me go through as the diversion was very long. They said
it should be ok as "there isn't anything human there now". The accident was
on a bend, and involved a car and a lorry. The car was barely recognisable
as such, and it's parts were scattered over an unbelievable distance.
It was the Friday of the bank holiday weekend when I reached Market
Rasen. On the way to the camp site I saw somebody coming out of a chip shop
with some fish that looked so good I just had to have some! I was not
disappointed. When I arrived at the site I was feeling quite smug, as my
tent is up in five minutes, and I was soon sitting with a cup of tea
watching couples fall out over how to get the caravan awning up. Once the
caravans were sorted I was soon invited to the one next to me, where I
initially turned down chops, sausages, five veg and potatoes, but was soon
persuaded to have some, even though I had already been to the chip shop.
This was washed down with beer, and the following morning I was given
porridge and tea. If anybody knows Sheila and Ed Shippen from Chester le
Street, they are a great couple!
Next stage was into Yorkshire - Helmsley was well worth the climb to get
to it, and onto the moors after leaving Helmsley was also very picturesque.
The road through Middlesborough was a nightmare, and I never want to see the
place again! Going North from here I have to say I much prefer crossing
rivers on a bridge to using a tunnel. The cyclists tunnel under the Tyne
seemed like it could be mugger's paradise. By this stage the weather had
turned nasty - rain, thunder and sleet. I arrived dripping at Dunstan, on
the Northumberland coast. While the wet is unpleasant, it is not really a
problem - but things were now to change.
At some point during the night the rain suddenly stopped, and the wind
started. What followed was 5 days of gales - always against me. When I
changed direction, so did the wind. During these 5 days I was unable to
complete all of each day's journey safely on the bike. I was pedalling hard
in granny gear to get down hill, and had on a couple of occasions blown
across the carriageway in front of lorries. On the grounds that I believe my
family would prefer me to get home alive, I was forced to take a train or
get a lift for part of the way on each day at this stage. This was very
disappointing, leaving me wondering if it was worth continuing, but I
decided to do so, hoping my sponsors would appreciate that I had done my
best.
In Dundee I received very welcome hospitality from Roos and Peter -Thank
you! Somebody here (sorry, can't remember who) advised caution in taking the
road over Cairn O' Mount. I left this decision until I reached that point,
but in view of the wind, the coastal route was the only sensible choice.
Inverness was always going to be decision time. If the gales continued I
would not have set off on the sometimes remote route from there. Fortunately
that was the day the wind dropped. I can thoroughly recommend the route from
here to Durness. The Struie Hill road is very scenic, and perhaps the first
small taste of what is to come. From Lairg to Altnahara has ever changing,
wonderful views on a single track road (as all roads are from now on). A
stop at the Crask Inn is a must. It is pretty basic, but very friendly. I
would not advise continuing on to Altnahara for refreshment - there is a
hotel there, but it is for hunting/shooting/fishing enthusiasts, and has a
car park stuffed with Rolls Royces.
From Altnahara I took the tiny road up to Hope, passing Ben Hope and
Loch Hope - a beautiful ride. A wild camp at Hope was followed by a short
ride into Durness the next day. With the sun shining on it the views around
Loch Eribol were quite breath taking.
After a couple of days rest in Durness I returned first to Inverness by
bus, then flew from there. As a final point, if anybody is thinking of
cycling in Sutherland, there is an excellent cycle bus service provided by
Tim Dearman Coaches. It seems that at present their cycle trailer is not
being used as much as they would like.