DA10sp: Can't shift to bottom cog

1. Get the hanger and other alignments checked

2. If that fails, try a new inner wire

Andrew F Martin said:

I have a wheel (Bontrager Race Lite) that for some reason won't easily
shift to the bottom cog without it rolling around a lot first. It only
drops after I reduce tension on the pedals, and even then it's spotty.
I don't have this problem with my other race wheel (Bontrager Race
X-Lite Carbon).

I have tried:

1. Set screw
2. Cable tension
3. Cable routing at BB
4. Removing the 10sp spacer (no good - left lots of play in the
cassette)

Is it just this wheel spacing that's out of whack? It doesn't seem to
matter if I use the 11-23 or the 12-25 cassette, both don't allow for
easy shifts to the bottom cog. Both cassettes work fine with the other
wheel.

Any ideas?

Andrew F Martin said:

I have a wheel (Bontrager Race Lite) that for some reason won't easily
shift to the bottom cog without it rolling around a lot first. It only
drops after I reduce tension on the pedals, and even then it's spotty.
I don't have this problem with my other race wheel (Bontrager Race
X-Lite Carbon).

I have tried:

1. Set screw
2. Cable tension
3. Cable routing at BB
4. Removing the 10sp spacer (no good - left lots of play in the
cassette)

Is it just this wheel spacing that's out of whack? It doesn't seem to
matter if I use the 11-23 or the 12-25 cassette, both don't allow for
easy shifts to the bottom cog. Both cassettes work fine with the other
wheel.

Any ideas?

I seem to remember having this discussion not too long ago - first
check that the derailleur hanger is straight, the cable is not sticking
somewhere, and that the cable cinch bolt's tabbed washer hasn't gotten
turned around (the tab drags on the derailleur arm and prevents
shifting to the smallest cog).

If those are in order, then it may be the thickness of the derailleur
hanger. Try removing the chain and cable, then loosen the derailleur
outer adjustment screw, so that the idler wheels are as far out as they
will go. Where do the idler wheels line up? Can they line up with the
11/12 cog?

If not then you can use a thin shim between the derailleur mount and
the dropout to extend the reach a bit.

If the derailleur can reach the 11/12 cog, then it should just be a
matter of adjustment or freeing up a sticky cable.

Andrew F Martin said:

I have a wheel (Bontrager Race Lite) that for some reason won't easily
shift to the bottom cog without it rolling around a lot first. It
only drops after I reduce tension on the pedals, and even then it's
spotty. I don't have this problem with my other race wheel (Bontrager
Race X-Lite Carbon).

I have tried:

1. Set screw
2. Cable tension
3. Cable routing at BB
4. Removing the 10sp spacer (no good - left lots of play in the
cassette)

Is it just this wheel spacing that's out of whack? It doesn't seem to
matter if I use the 11-23 or the 12-25 cassette, both don't allow for
easy shifts to the bottom cog. Both cassettes work fine with the
other wheel.

Any ideas?

Yes. Be sure that the anchor bolt plate thingy is oriented in the correct
direction. In other words, there's an 90-degree angled tab on there that
sticks down sorta, and it belongs on a specific side of the anchor tab part
of the derailleur. The flat part of the washer-plate must clamp the cable
between itself and the derailleur body.
--
Phil Lee, Squid

Phil Lee said:

Andrew F Martin said:

I have a wheel (Bontrager Race Lite) that for some reason won't easily
shift to the bottom cog without it rolling around a lot first. It
only drops after I reduce tension on the pedals, and even then it's
spotty. I don't have this problem with my other race wheel (Bontrager
Race X-Lite Carbon).

I have tried:

1. Set screw
2. Cable tension
3. Cable routing at BB
4. Removing the 10sp spacer (no good - left lots of play in the
cassette)

Is it just this wheel spacing that's out of whack? It doesn't seem to
matter if I use the 11-23 or the 12-25 cassette, both don't allow for
easy shifts to the bottom cog. Both cassettes work fine with the
other wheel.

Any ideas?

Yes. Be sure that the anchor bolt plate thingy is oriented in the correct
direction. In other words, there's an 90-degree angled tab on there that
sticks down sorta, and it belongs on a specific side of the anchor tab part
of the derailleur. The flat part of the washer-plate must clamp the cable
between itself and the derailleur body.
--
Phil Lee, Squid

Thanks. I've tried most of these ideas, but no luck on this particular
wheel. I might just try tiny spacer on the axle.