Road Cycling · Public discussion

Cyclocross bike fit different?

Started by Bryan C · · Last activity · 4 posts · 388 views

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Road Cycling
Published
10 July 2004
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12 July 2004
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Bryan C
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  1. I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
    commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
    getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
    56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
    higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
    stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
    recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
    the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
    work in general?

  2. [email hidden] (Bryan C) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
    commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
    getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
    56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
    higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
    stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
    recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
    the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
    work in general?

    Bryan,
    I bought a cross bike a couple of years ago and have been using it for
    commuting, trail riding and road riding. It has virtually replaced my
    road bike since the cross bike is more comfortable and fun to ride.
    It is the same frame size as my road bike. I have taken it onto
    pretty rough, rocky trails and don't have a problem with stand over
    height. I rarely need to straddle the top tube though.

    I would recommend you buy a frame that feels the best for the type of
    riding that will put the most miles on your bike. Buying a small frame
    would make commuting and touring uncomfortable. Plus, if you will be
    racing it in cyclocross, you mount and dismount, but don't need to
    straddle the tube, so I don't see how that would make a difference.
    Brad

  3. (Bryan C) said:

    I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
    commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
    getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
    56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
    higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
    stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
    recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
    the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
    work in general?

    Not necessarily, and it may not work at all if you can't get the bars
    high enough. A small-size bike is a problem, unless it has a long
    head tube and upsloping toptube, perhaps.

    Unscheduled get-offs are more common in cross than on the road, but not
    an issue for commuting and dirt-road riding. Still, standover is never
    really the first priority in bike fit - you rarely straddle the bike
    dead upright in your socks.

    For more on cyclocross bike fit see Adam Myerson's article at

    http://www.cycle-smart.com/coaching/articles/crossbike1.html

  4. -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    Bryan C said:

    I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
    commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
    getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
    56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
    higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
    stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
    recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
    the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
    work in general?

    _ Well, I followed this advice with my cross bike and I regretted
    it. I ended up having to buy a new uncut fork so I could get the
    handlebars high enough. Fortunately, surly cross check forks are
    relatively cheap. A slightly lower top tube is nice for those
    occaisonal accidental dismounts, but not being able to get the
    handlebars high enough is a much bigger problem. Plus you may
    end up with a too short top tube if you go two sizes smaller.

    _ I would also think twice about getting a Cross bike for

    "commuting/touring and dirt road riding"

    The high bottom bracket makes for a relatively twitchy bike. It
    may perhaps be because the bike is on the small side for me, but
    my Cross Check is not a bike I would pick for hours in the saddle
    with a load. It's a blast on dirt roads and okay for an hour or
    two on the road, but just seems to fight you after a couple
    hours. It needs looking after when you get tired and sloopy. A
    full on touring bike will work just fine for all the above and be
    a lot more comfortable on a long day.

    _ What you really need to do all the above is a bike
    with sufficient clearance to put fat tires on it.
    While a cross bike may be the obvious choice, it's
    not the only choice.

    _ Booker C. Bense

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