What are people's experiences with the Chris King alloy drive shells? I
have a stainless steel one, and I'm getting another set of CK hubs, and
wanted to know what the alloy ones were like.
Thought, opinions?
Many thanks,
Dave
A community for cyclists, gear, training and racing.
Cycling Equipment · Public discussion
Thread details
The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.
What are people's experiences with the Chris King alloy drive shells? I
have a stainless steel one, and I'm getting another set of CK hubs, and
wanted to know what the alloy ones were like.
Thought, opinions?
Many thanks,
Dave
I'm interested in this too. Also, does anyone know a good international
dealer for CK hubs? What should i expect to pay, and are skewers included?
Regards
Bow
"Dave" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:tyboc.300$0A.3235@localhost...
Quoted message said:What are people's experiences with the Chris King alloy drive shells? I
have a stainless steel one, and I'm getting another set of CK hubs, and
wanted to know what the alloy ones were like.Thought, opinions?
Many thanks,
Dave
Dave said:What are people's experiences with the Chris King alloy drive shells? I
have a stainless steel one, and I'm getting another set of CK hubs, and
wanted to know what the alloy ones were like.
Thought, opinions?
Many thanks, Dave
I use Chris King for road, touring, and MTB. The aluminum alloy drive
shell works OK as long as you use cogs that are mounted on carriers that
help spread the load. I tried a MTB cassette with the largest 2 cogs on
a carrier once, and that distorted the carrier such that the shifting
degraded. The carrier had significant impression from that venture. I
wouldn't try it again with any less than 3 cogs on a carrier for the
large cogs. If you already have the stainless steel one I would keep it.
I know there is a weight difference, but it isn't worth it to me.
As a side note, Shimano's 10 Speed DURA ACE cassette is has deeper
ridges/valleys to handle the load on the 10 speed hub.
--
daveornee said:I use Chris King for road, touring, and MTB. The aluminum alloy drive
shell works OK as long as you use cogs that are mounted on carriers that
help spread the load. I tried a MTB cassette with the largest 2 cogs on
a carrier once, and that distorted the carrier such that the shifting
degraded. The carrier had significant impression from that venture. I
wouldn't try it again with any less than 3 cogs on a carrier for the
large cogs. If you already have the stainless steel one I would keep it.
I know there is a weight difference, but it isn't worth it to me.As a side note, Shimano's 10 Speed DURA ACE cassette is has deeper
ridges/valleys to handle the load on the 10 speed hub.
Actually, I believe the reasons for the taller ridges on the hub is to
prevent the use of loose sprockets. This is because the new Dura-Ace
hub is the first Shimano hub to use an aluminum Freehub body. Such
bodies are notoriously inadequate for use with loose sprockets in the
larger sizes. The soft alumiuum gets notched up and it can become very
difficult to remove the sprockets.
Personally, I consider aluminum Freehub bodies to fall into the "stupid
light" category of parts.
Sheldon "Steel" Brown
+-----------------------------+
| Razors pain you; |
| Rivers are damp; |
| Acids stain you; |
| And drugs cause cramp; |
| Guns aren't lawful; |
| Nooses give; |
| Gas smells awful; |
| You might as well live. |
| --Dorothy Parker |
+-----------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
Sheldon Brown said:daveornee wrote:
<SNIP>Quoted message said:
As a side note, Shimano's 10 Speed DURA ACE cassette is has deeper
ridges/valleys to handle the load on the 10 speed hub.
Actually, I believe the reasons for the taller ridges on the hub is to
prevent the use of loose sprockets. This is because the new Dura-Ace hub
is the first Shimano hub to use an aluminum Freehub body. Such bodies
are notoriously inadequate for use with loose sprockets in the larger
sizes. The soft alumiuum gets notched up and it can become very
difficult to remove the sprockets.
Personally, I consider aluminum Freehub bodies to fall into the "stupid
light" category of parts.
Sheldon "Steel" Brown +-----------------------------+
| Razors pain you; | Rivers are damp; | Acids stain you;
| | And drugs cause cramp; | Guns aren't lawful; | Nooses
| give; | Gas smells awful; | You might as well live. | --Dorothy
| Parker |
+-----------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton,
Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com/http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts
shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com/http://captainbike.com[/url]
http://sheldonbrown.com/"]http://sheldonbrown.com
On the 10 speed DURA ACE hub, the one with the aluminum alloy casette
body, you can't fit any current cogs except the DURA ACE 10 speed. That
certainy does what Sheldon says. The deeper grooves also provide more
surface to spread the load on the softer material. I guess weight
savings drove them to it. I see the front hub is acutually heavier from
9 to 10 speed however. Score 1 for marketing and 1 for engineering. On
the Chris King side of the story, using a 9 speed DURA ACE cassettes
which has the largest 3 cogs on a carrier, makes only small "nicks" in
the ridges of the aluminum drive shell. I pull the cassette about every
1,000 miles to give it a dunking and complete cleaning. When I do that I
also clean up the "nicks" on the ridges of the CK drive shell.
Everything has been working well for over 30,000 miles on one CK hub. I
do regular maintenance on the hub, including the ring drive and "O"
rings. I use Chris King lube made for their hubs. I have similar results
with a 9 speed XTR cassettes on my touring bicycle, but only 16,000
miles on that hub. If you want the Stainless Steel Drive shell from
Chris King you will need to wait for 30 - 45 days as they are out of
stock. Note that not all Shimano cassettes have precisely the same
width. Some are undersized enough to be loose on the drive shell. If you
find one of these, there are thin washers ( 0.5 to 1.0 mm) to tighten
things up. Proper torque and grease on the lock ring threads is always
called for.
--
Active in the last 60 minutes
0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total
No signed-in users are active right now.
No known search crawlers active right now.