Cassette Problem

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Scott Schelle
I have been trying to switch my Campy Chorus 9 speed 12-23 to a Campy Chorus 9 speed 13-26. When I
torque the lockring down to 50 NM I get a lot of drag in the freewheel (pedals move when the wheel
rolls forward) and am having a hard time getting the 26 cog to run smoothly.

The RD is a Campagnolo short cage Chorus and the wheels are Campy Vento 16, all pre-99 vintage.

Anyone have any ideas?

It sounds like you have created some ""friction" area when you swapped cassettes. Since 1 mm in the wrong direction can cause rubbing, I would look carefully at what the cause is. Precision is required in cassettes, but it isn't always present.
Is the new, largest cog, contacting the spokes or spoke protector?
You may need a spacer at the back.
I wouldn't ride this rear wheel until I found the source of the difficulty.
Once you have settled the friction issue, you can then check the cable position and stops on your RD to see if it shifts the range correctly.

Thanks for the reply. I've taken the cassette off for now and will re-try once the weekend's rides
are over. Can't find the source of the friction even though I was very careful to get everything
assembled as indicated.

"daveornee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

Scott Schelle said:

I have been trying to switch my Campy Chorus 9 speed 12-23 to a Campy Chorus 9 speed 13-26.
When I torque the lockring down to 50 NM I get a lot of drag in the freewheel (pedals move
when the wheel rolls

forward)

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

and am having a hard time getting the 26 cog to run smoothly. The RD is a Campagnolo short
cage Chorus and the wheels are Campy

Vento

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

16, all pre-99 vintage. Anyone have any ideas?

It sounds like you have created some ""friction" area when you swapped cassettes. Since 1 mm in
the wrong direction can cause rubbing, I would look carefully at what the cause is. Precision is
required in cassettes, but it isn't always present. Is the new, largest cog, contacting the spokes
or spoke protector? You may need a spacer at the back. I wouldn't ride this rear wheel until I
found the source of the difficulty. Once you have settled the friction issue, you can then check
the cable position and stops on your RD to see if it shifts the range correctly.

--
David Ornee, Western Springs, IL USA

Quoted message said:

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Posted via cyclingforums.com cyclingforums.comcyclingforums.comOpen ↗

try backing off the freehub [f/h] body a little. iirc, it's held in place on the axle by a small
retaining hex screw from the dropout end, so if there is any elastic deformation in the f/h body on
torque, [and there will be a little], the only place for it to go is towards the hub body. if that
is already snug, torquing the cogs onto the body will make it tighter.

suggest loosening the f/h a little by backing off the retaining screw, then reseating. be careful
not to pull the f/h off completely.