I've built a few wheelsets in the past. Basically I decided what hubs I wanted, and what rims. Then I went to my LBS and they had a program that they'd punch the hub/rim combo into to get the proper spoke length for my desired lacing. In my case, I used Wheelsmith 15/16/15 spokes and alloy nipples. Since I was using alloy nipples, I treated the spoke threads with spoke prep (a chalky white paste).
These wheels are still going strong, although the braking surfaces are pretty well worn. All the other wheelsets I built were for friends. Some of them are still in use. I have no idea what's become of the rest.
I'm sure there are better methods, but I would always lace up the wheels, one side at a time, then spin all the nipples in until X number of threads were showing from each one. Then I'd go along and spin each nipple 1 turn, or 1/2 turn (just as long as you do them all the same amount) until they started to get snug. Then 1/4 turn increments, checking trueness and roundness until they got close to tension. I'd always start at the valve, so I'd know I hit them all.
In the final passes I would take the wheel off the stand and release the spoke tension by putting the hub on the floor and pressing gently on the rim (kind of like you're holding a steering wheel). I'd do that 3-4 times, rotating the rim between each "press", then I'd flip the rim and do it to the other side. The spokes will make a "plink" sound when the wound-up tension is released. Eventually the spokes are up to tension, and the wheel is true, and pressing on it won't make any noise.
I would also usually re-check the wheels for trueness after the first decent ride. Most of the time if you spent enough care on the building process, you won't need to touch them again.
Other people may have better tips. Most of mine were self-learned.
