The Brahmin of the Burning Ghats LOST IN THE FIERY BACK ALLEYS OF VARANASI, A WANDERER STUMBLES INTO AN UNFORGETTABLE ENCOUNTER. teemed with bathers performing ablutions on the landings, or ghats; now, with , sending molten feelers out into a mackerel sky, bathers were few, and the ghats were reacquiring a serene, timeless air.
Life in Varanasi,city of Hinduism, and one of the oldest living cities on Earth, centered around the ghats. Each ghat was distinct: Dashashwamedha and officious priests; Bhonsale Ghat had its sandstone tenements and terraced hostels; Scindia Ghat was marked by the leaning and half-submerged Temple of Shiva. As the breeze died, the bluing