I was enchanted by my first ride in Auvergne. Thanks much to
[email hidden] for recommending the region. I'd be glad to get some more
specific ideas about fun places + roads to try there.
After I saw the Auvergne region recommended on this newsgroup earlier this
year, I had to get out my map of France to find out
where it was. In the center of the country with some volcanic mountains
called the Massif Central. As I drove into the region, I thought the terrain
all around looked promising for riding -- some flat areas along the river
Allier, mountains to the west that didn't look too intimidating, lots of
rolling farmland, interspersed with lots of little volcanic nubs.
I decided to ride a loop clockwise around the Puy de Sancy (1885m, might be
highest in Massif Central?). What struck me most was the many pretty farms
with their buildings and cows and horses. Next was how each climb was
rewarded by a fun interesting descent. Also far and wide views out from the
hillsides. Variety in the route -- also included a bigger climb over a named
pass, and some riding in the forest. I loved it despite it being the
windiest day I remember choosing to ride. (route details below)
Eager to try a second day, I used the Michelin 1:200000 Auvergne Limousin
map to prepare some ideas for a loop route. I found a place to park my car
by the Longues SNCF train station near Vic-le-Comte, southeast from
Clermont, got on my bike ... and there in the station parking lot was a map
showing a bike route titled C8 -- about the same distance and using some of
the same roads I had planned. So I decided to follow the signs for that
route, and it was delightful riding like the first day -- this time with
more focus on hilltop villages.
I'd be glad for more ideas for a return visit. Below is what I've learned so
far.
Ken
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sources of info for Auvergne routes:
I didn't find any specifics in a search of the rec.bicycles.rides newsgroup
archives for
"Auvergne", but here's what I have found:
* single-day routes in Puy-de-Dome dept -- includes a map I saw at the train
station showing 12 circuits -- but limited details:
http://pro.planetepuydedome.com/docs_a_telecharger/dp_cyclo.pdf
seems like my first day's riding was something like Circuit 11 on the map,
second day Circuit 8.
* the Lonely Planet "Cycling France" guidebook has a 3-day route from
Clermont thru Mont-Dore and Condat to Murat which tends to stay the higher
mountains - (but actually I'm more interested in the farms and low hills)
* single-day routes in Cantal dept, mostly around Madic:
http://perso.orange.fr/auguste.hurgon/cadre_circuit.htm
* 2-week itinerary (high-level) around much of the region is linked from:
http://www.velo.qc.ca/voyages/travel.lasso?page=europe&surtitre=auvergne
* two 1-week itineraries (very high-level) linked from:
http://www.cyclomundo.com/hp_auvergne.htm
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around Puy de Sancy route details
I started in Besse (because it was convenient to drive there from an
Autoroute exit). After a temporary detour on D149 south, I continued with
D978 south, D203 west thru Picherande on the south side of the Puy de Sancy.
Then by the village of Chastreix D88 northeast then west, D645 northeast to
le Mont-Dore on the north side of the Puy de Sancy. Climbed (with a steep
start) around 400 vertical meters to Col de la Croix St Robert, then D36
southeast to return to Besse. I think around 65 km, some gentle, some hilly.
I saw bike route markings painted on pavement and on signposts at several
points. I was glad I chose the clockwise direction because the descents
looked more interesting.
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official bike route C8 in Puy-de-Dome details
route is roughly 10-20 km southeast of the city of Clermont-Ferrand, and
passes thru these places: Longues - Montfleury - Busseol - Lignat - St
Julien de Coppel - la Beaute - Saliedes - Pignols - St Babel - Yronde
et-Buron - Coudes - Sauvetat - Longues. Sign said 62 km with +1310 vertical
meters of climbing. Difficulty level 3 out of possible 4. I thought it was
hilly, but each climb was worth it for view and/or fun descent.
Ken