another compatibility question!

robsy said:

The rear stays on my steel frame are 126mm and i would like to fit new wheels. Has anyone widened their frame before to accomodate a new wheel?

Yes. I have done it several times ...

And, so can you if you don't have arthritis ...

You need to remove the rear wheel ...

Grab each dropout and (WITHOUT using any leverage other than your own upper body strength) apply whatever you estimate to be about 30 lbs. of force by pulling outward. Measure & repeat until you achieve a separation of 130mm.

You will need to (i.e., you should) align the rear derailleur hanger so that it is a plane that is parallel to the central plane of the bike ... this should be done even if you are not planning on using indexed shifting because it will make insertion/removal of the wheel easier ...

Sandwich the dropout between two pieces of scrap plywood & TWEAK the dropout with a PIPE WRENCH. Use less force, initially, than you think you need. Check for square ... repeat as necessary.

thanks for the info. now i have to choose a nice set of wheels!

alfeng said:

Yes. I have done it several times ...

And, so can you if you don't have arthritis ...

You need to remove the rear wheel ...

Grab each dropout and (WITHOUT using any leverage other than your own upper body strength) apply whatever you estimate to be about 30 lbs. of force by pulling outward. Measure & repeat until you achieve a separation of 130mm.

You will need to (i.e., you should) align the rear derailleur hanger so that it is a plane that is parallel to the central plane of the bike ... this should be done even if you are not planning on using indexed shifting because it will make insertion/removal of the wheel easier ...

Sandwich the dropout between two pieces of scrap plywood & TWEAK the dropout with a PIPE WRENCH. Use less force, initially, than you think you need. Check for square ... repeat as necessary.

alfeng said:

Yes. I have done it several times ...

And, so can you if you don't have arthritis ...

You need to remove the rear wheel ...

Grab each dropout and (WITHOUT using any leverage other than your own upper body strength) apply whatever you estimate to be about 30 lbs. of force by pulling outward. Measure & repeat until you achieve a separation of 130mm.

You will need to (i.e., you should) align the rear derailleur hanger so that it is a plane that is parallel to the central plane of the bike ... this should be done even if you are not planning on using indexed shifting because it will make insertion/removal of the wheel easier ...

Sandwich the dropout between two pieces of scrap plywood & TWEAK the dropout with a PIPE WRENCH. Use less force, initially, than you think you need. Check for square ... repeat as necessary.

Note: This will work with a steel frame. Do not attempt this with an aluminum frame or you will ruin it. The aluminum tubes will most likely crack before they flex 4mm.