Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Adjusting chainline with BB

Started by Ted Bennett · · Last activity · 5 posts · 1,275 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
16 March 2003
Last activity
17 March 2003
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Ted Bennett
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  1. How does one go about moving the chainline inwards in a predictable way?

    Here's the situation: I'm building a fixed gear using a track hub, which means that the chainline
    must be at 42.5mm from the bike's centerline. To economize, I will be using road, rather than
    track cranks.

    Using the recommended BB for the road cranks will place the chainline at
    43.5mm, so with the 5mm chainring seperation, the rings would be at 41 and 46. Thus the ring is at
    the wrong place at either location. I'd like to use the outer location because it looks better,
    so that means I need a BB that is 3.5mm shorter on the right side than the recommended one.

    The cranks are Shimano, but Shimano's website is not very forthcoming with technical details such as
    right and left spindle lengths for its various cartridges. I'd be happy to use some other brand. For
    example Phil Wood has a nice list at www.philwood.com/webcatolog/page11.htm but I still have no idea
    what to specify to get the resulting chainline right.

    Help please.

    --
    Ted Bennett Portland OR

  2. Ted Bennett said:

    How does one go about moving the chainline inwards in a predictable way?

    Here's the situation: I'm building a fixed gear using a track hub, which means that the chainline
    must be at 42.5mm from the bike's centerline.

    Actually most are a bit closer in than that.

    Quoted message said:

    To economize, I will be using road, rather than track cranks.

    Shimano BB spindles are symmetrical, so if you change the length, the chainline changes by half the
    difference.

    F'rinstance, if you go from a 118 to a 113, chainline moves in by 5 mm.

    Quoted message said:

    Using the recommended BB for the road cranks will place the chainline at
    43.5mm, so with the 5mm chainring seperation, the rings would be at 41 and 46. Thus the ring is at
    the wrong place at either location.

    41 is pretty close. Hub chainline varies more than you might expect. I've just put up a new article
    on this topic, see:

    sheldonbrown.comchainline

    You will find there a chart of hubs and another chart of sprockets and freewheels. With this
    information you can determine the actual chainline.

    Also, you can move the rear chainline inward, if needed, by flipping the cog over. In practice,
    however, it's almost never necessary to move it farther in in back.

    Quoted message said:

    I'd like to use the outer location because it looks better, so that means I need a BB that is
    3.5mm shorter on the right side than the recommended one.

    That would want a 7 mm shorter spindle, which may or may not exist.

    Quoted message said:

    The cranks are Shimano, but Shimano's website is not very forthcoming with technical details such
    as right and left spindle lengths for its various cartridges. I'd be happy to use some other
    brand. For example Phil Wood has a nice list at www.philwood.com/webcatolog/page11.htm but I still
    have no idea what to specify to get the resulting chainline right.

    Phil bbs are particularly nice for this because they are adjustable for chainline.

    Sheldon "Straight Ahead" Brown +-------------------------------------------------------+
    | I found no fault with the cook, and it was the rule | of the voyage that the cook found no fault
    | with me. | There was never a ship's crew so well agreed. | --Joshua Slocum _Sailing Alone Around
    | The World_ | eldred.ne.mediaone.netsaaw.htm |
    +-------------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    captainbike.comcaptainbike.com sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.com

  3. Quoted message said:

    F'rinstance, if you go from a 118 to a 113, chainline moves in by 5 mm.


    isn't 2.5 half of 5 Mr Brown but if l am wrong it wouldn't be the first time

  4. stu said:
    Quoted message said:

    F'rinstance, if you go from a 118 to a 113, chainline moves in by 5 mm.

    isn't 2.5 half of 5 Mr Brown but if l am wrong it wouldn't be the first time

    That bonehead always did have trouble with basic arithmetic!

    Carapace Completed Umber Princeton, New Jersey
    +---------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Anyone who can't use a slide rule is a cultural illiterate, | and should not be allowed to vote.
    | --Robert A. Heinlein |
    +---------------------------------------------------------------+

  5. ted-<< Here's the situation: I'm building a fixed gear using a track hub, which

    means that the chainline must be at 42.5mm from the bike's centerline.

    Not really-the ring you use must be aligned with the cog/hub you use. make the line parallel to
    the top tube.

    I wouldn't fret about that number-adjust the hub so that the rear cog is aligned with the ring.

    Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

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