Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

A silver lining? (was: "alas, poor Yorick...")

Started by Chris Zacho "Th · · Last activity · 5 posts · 831 views

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
2 July 2003
Last activity
4 July 2003
Original author
Chris Zacho "Th
Posts
5
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
831
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–5 of 5
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. Sorry if starting a new post thread on the same subject is a no-no, I just don't like long threads,
    they tend to bury other peoples questions.
    :-3)

    Since it seems I _can_ have my rear dropout re-welded (My LBS knows a frame builder) with no worries
    of the frame being weakened, maybe I can use this misfortune to my advantage, and have it upgraded
    for disc brakes too. They seem to be the best bet for braking in the sticky Carolina clay. But I
    have a couple of questions first...

    1. This is an older frame (89 Schwinn Sierra, hardtail). It is made of tig welded CrMo steel, but
    this was in the days prior to ATB disc brakes. Question: Can DB mounts be welded onto the rear
    S.stay of this bike?

    2. I would also like to, if possible, have a DB mount welded to my front fork as well, but to the
    FRONT side of it. This would alleviate the QR-axle-being-thrust-out-of-the-dropout problem.
    Especially in my case, since my forks were made in the days before "lawyer lips". Question: Will
    disc brakes like the Hayes or Avid mechanicals still work even if they're mounted backwards?

    Thanks in advance, Your response is welcomed. Your patience appreciated.

    May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills! Chris

    Chris'Z Corner "The Website for the Common Bicyclist": geocities.comczcorner

  2. "Chris Zacho "The Wheelman"" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Sorry if starting a new post thread on the same subject is a no-no, I just don't like long
    threads, they tend to bury other peoples questions.
    :-3)

    Since it seems I _can_ have my rear dropout re-welded (My LBS knows a frame builder) with no
    worries of the frame being weakened, maybe I can use this misfortune to my advantage, and have it
    upgraded for disc brakes too. They seem to be the best bet for braking in the sticky Carolina
    clay. But I have a couple of questions first...

    <<snip..>>

    Quoted message said:

    May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills! Chris

    Chris'Z Corner "The Website for the Common Bicyclist": geocities.comczcorner

    You sure a disc brake is an upgrade?? ;-)

    Cheers,

    Scott..

  3. S. Anderson said:

    "Chris Zacho "The Wheelman"" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Sorry if starting a new post thread on the same subject is a no-no, I just don't like long
    threads, they tend to bury other peoples questions.
    :-3)

    Since it seems I _can_ have my rear dropout re-welded (My LBS knows a frame builder) with no
    worries of the frame being weakened, maybe I can use this misfortune to my advantage, and have it
    upgraded for disc brakes too. They seem to be the best bet for braking in the sticky Carolina
    clay. But I have a couple of questions first...

    <<snip..>>

    Quoted message said:

    May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills! Chris

    Chris'Z Corner "The Website for the Common Bicyclist": geocities.comczcorner

    You sure a disc brake is an upgrade?? ;-)

    Cheers,

    Scott..

    It sure was for me. But, I had the mounts!

    As to the question -- I'd ask the frame builder. He'd be the one that's in the best position to know
    -- and, he'll have your frame & fork in his hands so he can make a good assessment. He may even be
    able to put some lawyer-like lips on 🙂.

    BTW, getting the mounts and calipers is one thing. The more expensive part is often hubs that are
    compatible with disc rotors!

    David

  4. Quoted message said:

    You sure a disc brake is an upgrade?? ;-)

    Quoted message said:

    Cheers,

    Quoted message said:

    Scott..

    In the muck I have to contend with whilst MTB'ing here? Yes.

    You should hear it grinding away my rims!

    May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills! Chris

    Chris'Z Corner "The Website for the Common Bicyclist": geocities.comczcorner

  5. "Chris Zacho "The Wheelman"" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    In the muck I have to contend with whilst MTB'ing here? Yes.

    You should hear it grinding away my rims!

    May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills! Chris

    Chris'Z Corner "The Website for the Common Bicyclist": geocities.comczcorner

    Yeah, in the goo they are an improvement. I was trying to start an ugly rim brake vs. disc brake
    controversy again!! heehee...As far as your Schwinn goes, you may have a problem because of the
    S-stays. I don't think it's insurmountable, but your framebuilder may have to manufacture a little
    offset bracket to hold the tab for the caliper if the stay bends away where the caliper is supposed
    to mount. The caliper needs to be square to the rotor and it needs to be in a fairly set location
    away from the rotor. In all likliehood, both tabs will have to be offset somewhat from your stay to
    mount correctly. But since you're deep into it with the torches, this all shouldn't be a problem.
    Piece of cake for a good frame builder, even a hack framebuilder. He'll likely need a hub with a
    rotor on it and your caliper to mock up the location of the caliper on the stay. He'll build a
    bracket for each, tack the tabs, check the alignment and blaze away. May add a bit to the cost.
    Re-finishing will be the challenge. If you want to keep the bike, get a pro to paint it. I've always
    found it very hard to get a good finish without the proper paint and equipment. Paint should run
    $100 or so professionally. If you're not too concerned about looks, just paint the portion that gets
    heat damaged and leave the rest of the frame as is..the original paint is better than anything
    you'll likely be able to perform at home. Good luck!

    Scott..

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.